The Greeks called them anaxyrides and sarabara. The Koreans called them pajli. Emperor Charlemagne wore them habitually. It’s a tradition that goes back to the Paleolithic ages, and continued with the Persians, Bactrians, Armenians, the Tigraxauda Scythians, and Mongolians who all wore trousers. Between the 8th and the 15th century, trousers became part of haute male fashion. The men’s trouser is a deceptive beast, for even Bond street tailors despair to get it right. They holds the wearer’s image together while striving to be the least noticed part. Without the perfect cut and fall of the lower-half, the modern gentleman may end up looking like as if he shops at Charlie Chaplin’s.
Beginner’s Rules: Good trousers should be understated, unless you are a circus clown or in vaudeville. The purpose of a perfect ensemble is to direct attention toward the face. Drawing the eye below the waist is not the way to achieve it. The mark of a well-stitched pair of pants is a smooth and unbroken flow up the wearer’s body; perfect trousers are ones that retain their sleek profile whether the wearer is moving or stationary, seated or standing.
Pocket Points: A point to ponder; men carry all sorts of personal items in their trouser pockets: keys, wallet, cellphones and handkerchiefs. A good tailor will ensure pockets are of the correct size and shape to carry these items without bulging. When purchasing pants off the rack, first load the pockets and check in a mirror. While ordering custom-made trousers, put all the usual daily items in the pockets when the measurements are taken.
The perfect pair of pants should follow the natural shape of the wearer’s body—widest at the waist and tapering all the way to the ankles. No excess fabric should hang loose. A good pair of pants should not billow as you walk; they should not be too tight while walking or sitting either, and should never wrinkle or bunch around the thighs, which only shows the trousers are too tight. Formal dress pants should never narrow and then widen as it descends.
The Fit: The fall, or the distance from the waist to the crotch, of dress trousers is longer than that of jeans. The pants should be worn higher on the body, and rest comfortably above the hips. A well-fitted pair will not slide off the body on their own, even without a belt or suspenders. Suspenders give the impression of pants hanging on the body, smooth and flat. Many fashion-conscious men order trousers with no belt loops because of a preference for suspenders. During the fitting, first see how the pants fit without a belt or suspenders. If the trousers pinch or keep slipping off, it’s a bad fit. If they are loose, expect excess fabric in places. If they sag at the crotch, they are too loose. Wrinkles and bunching when you move means the trousers are too tight.
Pleat Power: With trousers, ignore fluctuating fashion trends and first understand their structure. Pleats are permanently stitched small folds in any garment. Trouser pleats are small vertical lines running from the waistband to around the same height as the crotch. These give flexibility to the trouser front because they expand slightly when the wearer sits or stretches, keeping the cut and drape intact without visible tightening and wrinkling. Many choose to have a single fold on each side of the trousers, but double pleats afford more flexibility for men with wider legs. If the pleats open wide when you stand, it means the trousers are too tight at the thigh. Tell your tailor, pleats should only flex and widen when the wearer is sitting or his leg is stretched out. The advantage of plain front trousers is the front appears narrower and sleeker than of pleated trousers, when the wearer is standing. These are recommended for tall, slim men because any extra fabric around the hips will make the pants look loose.
Cuff Parade: Most dress pants end at the ankle with small folded bands called cuffs. They add extra weight to the pants by pulling them down to fall straight and prevent billowing. The cuff should rest against the back of the shoe and drape right on top of the front, forming a slightly-pointed ‘beak’ where the pant’s pressed fold comes to rest on the shoe. Cuffs make the pants appear shorter, and the chest and face stands out; so shorter men may avoid cuffs. While ordering uncuffed trousers, insist they should be cut slightly lower in the back to keep a clean drape. Cuffed trousers last longer because the doubled-over fabric of a cuff has extra cloth to prevent faster wear and tear. Most pleated pants feature cuffs while most plain fronts are cuffless.
Trouser Pockets: The front pockets are simple up-and-down slits, with minimal hemming. Pockets are not meant to attract attention. Hemmed, slanted ones are casual. Back pockets are mostly single unadorned slits, but horizontal. Pocket flaps on the back pockets take away from the sleek formal look, and buttons should be discreet. Pockets may be eliminated altogether on trousers that are part of a suit. This way, the trousers appear completely even in the back, and are more comfortable while sitting.
Fabric Fundas: Most formal dress pants are made of woven wool or woolen blends. The preferred fabric for formal trousers is gray flannel because they go well with most dark colours and are comfortable and durable, cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The next preferred choice is navy blue. Browns and khaki are for casual office wear. Black trousers that are not worn as part of a suit draw the eye away from the colour worn above. Heavier fabrics are not advisable for summer even though the drape is smoother and help the trousers hang neatly because they will be too warm for comfort.
Linen trousers are reappearing as summer nears. When choosing a linen trouser, keep in mind the combination. It is best to combine linen trousers with a matching linen jacket though many prefer a contrast. Most linen trousers for men are wide-legged and loose fitting and are ideal for casual dressing. Linen is a very cool fabric to wear, since it takes moisture away from the skin. Linen pants, flat or pleated, look good when worn with a belt. The belt should be matched with the shoe colour. The colour palette for linen tends to be limited: neutral colours or very dark. So, while choosing linen pants, think what you would wear on the top part; a deconstructed jacket—without padding or lining—is a good bet. It’s stylish and floppy, but very dressy as well. Remember: the hit below the belt has more power than you think.