What’s Haute, What’s Nought
Every sartorial season, an unspoken message passes through the close-knit fashion fraternity. Proverbial gavels call to order the trends of the times, and fashion designers—signature styles notwithstanding—create pieces that fall within the confines of those trends. The recent FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week 2022, held in its first physical iteration in two years, was no different. Keen to know what was trending? Here’s a round-up of the trends that stood out at this year’s runway.
Style and Sustainability: In 2022, a label runs the risk of being boycotted if it doesn’t adhere to sustainable practices. Fortunately, most, if not all, Indian designers have adopted eco-friendly fabrics and methods for their collections. Whether it was JJ Valaya’s use of silk alternative Tencel Luxe for his new bridge-to-luxury line ‘JJV,’ Varun Bahl’s upcycled embroidery, or the use of Khadi by multiple designers including Mossi—the first international one to showcase at an Indian fashion week; it is clear that being ‘eco-friendly’ is no longer mere lip service.
Cut-outs to add Pizzazz: ‘Sexy’ was the operative word for many collections, and the easiest way to add a dash of glamour without going over the top, was through strategically placed cut-outs. Suneet Varma put them on sleeves, Shivan & Narresh’s designs indulged in revealing necklines offset by interesting straps, and Reynu Taandon + Nikhita used them effectively to cinch the waists of their flowy bohemian dresses. However, the most striking of these was Manish Malhotra’s showstopper gown blurring the lines between a plunging back and an exposed waist.
Prints Are In: Celebrating a return to normal life, vibrant prints ruled the roost. They ranged from Satya Paul’s kitschy versions to Two Point Two’s cute ones. Payal Pratap’s elegant iterations to eye-catching ones from Huemn. Ashish N Soni styled printed pants with crisp white kurtas and jackets for an alluring effect, while Ranna Gill used them on understated lehengas.
A Play on Volume: As far as shapes and silhouettes go, the message is loud and clear—go big or go home. Flounces, frills, bell-shaped sleeves, layers of tassels, and flowy garments were spotted in various avatars. These included Shantanu & Nikhil’s dark and sexy bomber jackets, Esha Amiin’s ‘deconstructed geometrical’ pants and dresses, and the feather-laden mini dresses by Pankaj & Nidhi.
Sequins for Old World Glamour: Nothing quite spells old-world glamour like a dash of sequins. This was certainly evident in the liberal use of the embellishment by many designers who showcased their collections.
Patterned crystals lit up Falguni & Shane Peacock’s futuristic designs, subtle same-color sequins enriched the evening wear of Tarun Tahiliani, Siddartha Tytler’s intricate beadwork had a multi-dimensional effect, and Ananya Modi Jain’s athleisure was elevated with the use of glitter. All in all, this unobtrusive element made its presence felt throughout the week.