Corporate Chef Suresh Pillai of the Raviz Resort and Spa, which is located on the banks of the Ashtamudi Lake, Kollam (138 km from Kochi) has made quite a unique menu, called the Taste of Ashtamudi. It uses catch from the lake instead of imported ones. “Usually only the local people eat these fishes, but I wanted our guests also to enjoy it,” says the chef, who has worked in London for 14 years and has participated in the BBC Masterchef programme in 2017.
“We always use fresh ingredients. In Kerala cuisine, there is a tendency to use a lot of masalas. As a result, it overpowers the flavour of the fish. So, to cook pearl spot (locally known as Karimeen) I use the extract of the coconut milk, black pepper, ginger and curry leaves. I don’t use any masala, but add dash of turmeric,” says Suresh.
In Asthamudi, which is spread over 62 sq kms, there is a tributary called the Kanjirode. Earlier, there was a tapioca factory next to it. The tapioca waste would be dumped into the lake. The pearl spot fish apparently ate this waste and acquired their distinct flavour. While pearl spot usually sells for `400 per kilo, the Kanjirode variety goes as high as `900 per kilo.
Another reason for the unique taste is the mud at the bottom of the lake. In the olden times, the work on making coir products would take place by the side of water bodies in Alleppey and Kollam districts. “The shell of the coconut would be soaked in the water for three months. This added further flavour to the fishes,” adds the chef. The other items on the menu include the yellow clams, mussels, groupers, mullets, Indian bream, catfish and oysters.
“In the West, people eat oysters raw, but in Kerala, we fry or roast it,” says Suresh, who also serves tiger prawns, as well as the mud crabs. Ruing about fishing practices, he says, “The fishermen should only catch the bigger fish and leave the small ones.
One snapper can feed six people. But if a baby snapper dies, it is gone forever. There is a lack of awareness among fishermen. They don’t know how to sustain the environment. So many species are becoming extinct.” Suresh further suggests that there should be a ban on fishing in the lake during some months.“The government should also conduct awareness classes. That is the only way to protect the fish ecosystem.”