Travel

The Last Road to the Sea

The silent town of Dhanushkodi is home to an old abandoned church and other historic ruins

Bindu Gopal Rao

The road narrows to a thin ribbon of asphalt, the ocean glittering on both sides. Waves flash blue and silver, the wind sharp with salt, and the horizon feels impossibly close. The drive from Rameshwaram to Dhanushkodi is among India’s most surreal journeys, where land appears suspended between two restless seas. Then the ruins appear. Concrete pillars rise abruptly from the sand—the skeletal remains of the old railway station. They stand silent against the wind, a reminder of the devastating cyclone of December 1964 that submerged the town.

“Dhanushkodi holds immense spiritual significance as mentioned in the Ramayana and is revered as the starting point of the sacred Ram Setu, the bridge believed to connect India to Sri Lanka,” says Rajesh Kumar, General Manager, The Residency Towers, Rameshwaram. “Its serene beaches, divine connection and historic charm make it a must-visit for both pilgrims and tourists.”

Fact File Reach: Dhanushkodi is about 18 km from Rameshwaram, and it is best to hire a private car to reach here Stay: The Residency Towers, Rameshwaram, is the only 5-star property in the region and has comfortable rooms and food to match Tips: Hire a local guide who can show you the place and explain the history. Carry your own water, a hat and sunscreen, as the sun is quite harsh, especially in summer

Further ahead stand the striking remains of St Antony’s Church. A wooden boardwalk leads across the sand to the structure, where coral-red stones, weathered arches and the faint outline of the altar remain visible. Behind it lie scattered fragments of homes and temples—a façade here, a carved spire there. Near one temple ruin, delicate parakeet motifs still decorate the walls, and inside, a deity continues to receive quiet offerings. Life thrives along the shore. Fishermen cast their nets into the surf, while egrets and herons patrol the shallow waters. Small stalls sell shell crafts along the sandy road. At the very edge stands a pillar bearing the national emblem — beyond it, only the vast sweep of the ocean.

Arrive early and the sunrise spills gold across the water, lighting up the empty streets where peacocks now wander freely. On the return journey, a stop at the Kothandaramar Temple adds another layer to the landscape. The temple is believed to mark the site where Lord Rama crowned Vibhishana, Ravana’s brother, after the battle in Lanka. Nearby lies Jada Theertham, a quiet pond beside an ancient Shiva temple where locals say Rama washed his matted hair after the war. Together, the sea, myth and ruins give Dhanushkodi a rare atmosphere—stark, sacred and strangely beautiful at the very edge of the country.

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