There is more to Amritsar than the Golden Temple, especially once you step into the textured lanes of old Ambersar. The lingering fragrance of desi ghee drifts out of century-old halwai shops, the clang of metal utensils in cramped bazaars, and narrow gullies where homes lean close enough to exchange conversation across balconies. Around places like Katra Ahluwalia and the bazaars circling Hall Gate, the past is not preserved so much as lived in—embroidered phulkaris hanging in shopfronts, stacks of papad and wadiyan drying on terraces, and elderly men lingering over glasses of lassi thick enough to require a spoon. Walk a little further and quiet historical pockets appear: shrines tucked into street corners, and neighbourhood sarovars like Santokhsar Sahib. Little wonder that this city is host to a cultural festival like the Sacred Amritsar—the fourth edition concluded recently.
The Gurbani in the background at Santokhsar Sahib isolates you from the chaos of old Amritsar. The sarovar, one of the five prominent water bodies of Amritsar, is a symbol of peace and salvation for countless believers. Excavated by the fourth Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das Ji—who also founded the city of Amritsar in 1574—it stands in contrast to Ambersar and its hustle and bustle.
“Guru Ram Das imagines Santokhsar Sarovar as a sanctuary of inner stillness. The very name ‘Santokhsar,’ drawn from ‘Santokh’ meaning contentment and ‘Sar’ meaning lake, reflects this purpose,” says guide Tarundeep Singh Ghuman, as he leads a group of history enthusiasts. A few steps forward, and Singh pauses in front of Gurdwara Saragarhi. Dedicated to the 21 brave soldiers of the 36th Sikhs Battalion who lost their lives defending their post at Fort Lockhart in Saragarhi (now in Pakistan) in 1897, the shrine commemorates an act that is both harrowing and heroic. “The Sikh soldiers fought to death, refusing to surrender,” the guide says.
Bypassing a magnificent marble statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, founder and maharaja of the Sikh kingdom of Punjab at the chowk, one heads towards a crumbling doorway marked “Qila Ahluwalia.” Built by the Ahluwalia Misl in the 18th century, this fort played a crucial role in standing up against foreign invasions. In 1900, the fort was auctioned to Marwari families, who gradually transformed it into homes and shops. Today, its narrow lanes buzz with textile shops, havelis, and small businesses.
The sarovar, one of the five prominent water bodies of Amritsar, is a symbol of peace and salvation for countless believers. Excavated by the fourth Sikh Guru, Guru Ram Das Ji—who also founded the city of Amritsar in 1574—it stands in contrast to Ambersar and its hustle and bustle.
The walk comes to an end at Jallianwala Bagh. The noise of the city recedes immediately as you step inside. The narrow entrance, the bullet-marked walls, and the silent well hold the memory of a dark day. The guide softly recites a few lines from Nanak Singh’s Khuni Vaisakhi, his words deepening the weight of the place.