The weather forecast had promised a typically overcast Wednesday with little more than a stray drizzle. A grey sky was hardly a reason to stay indoors, so we set out for a day of high-altitude history and monolithic landscapes, beginning with Namada Chilume before taking on the fort at Madhugiri and ending at Sira in Tumakuru.
Instead of taking the usual turn towards Dabaspete from the Bengaluru-Tumakuru highway, we continued towards Tumakuru, adding about 10 km to the journey and stopped for breakfast at Siddaganga Hotel on Belagumba Road. A plate of steaming idli and a masala vada later, we were back on the road towards SH94.
The route took us through the green Devarayanadurga forest landscape, a refreshing change from the highway. Namada Chilume, a natural spring traditionally associated with Lord Rama, lies within this forested region and is also recognised as a nearby attraction by Karnataka Tourism.
We reached at around 8am, paid the `20 entry fee and walked towards the spring. The Karnataka Forest Department maintains the area, including a deer enclosure and a medicinal plant section. The spring emerges from a small opening in the rock and is associated with a local Ramayana legend. According to the belief, Rama needed water to apply a nama to his forehead and shot an arrow into the rock when none was available, creating the spring. The name Namada Chilume refers to this association with the tilak or nama.
We took a sip of the cool spring water before wandering around the enclosure. Deer moved quietly beneath the trees, making the stop feel far removed from the bustle of Bengaluru. It was a calm beginning to a day that would soon become considerably more strenuous.
About 40 km away, Madhugiri rose sharply from the surrounding plains. The hill is regarded as Asia’s second-largest monolithic rock and reaches about 1,200 metres above sea level. The fort was built during the Vijayanagara period and was later fortified by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan.
We registered our names, vehicle number and entry time at the gate before leaving the vehicle at the free parking area. At the base, we stopped at the Kote Kodandarama Swamy Temple, filled our water bottles and tightened our shoelaces. Binoculars went into the bag too.
The climb began gently but soon turned into a scramble up the exposed granite. Instead of conventional steps, sections of the route use carved footholds and iron railings. The steepest stretches demand attention to every step. On a sunny day, the rock would have made the ascent much harder, but the cloud cover kept the temperature comfortable and a steady breeze followed us upwards. The trek is known for its steep incline and exposed rock sections.
As we climbed through successive gateways, the remains of bastions, fort walls and water tanks appeared at different levels. The fort’s layered defences become easier to understand as you gain height. At the top, we sat for a few minutes with the Tumakuru countryside spread below us. The descent was quicker once our feet had adjusted to the terrain. We spent a little over four hours on the fort including breaks.
After lunch at Shanti Sagar near Madhugiri bus stand, we rode another 35 km to Sira. The landscape flattened out and the character of the fort changed completely. Sira Fort traces its origins to Kasturi Rangappa Nayaka, a Vijayanagara-era ruler and the town later became the capital of the Mughal province of Sira. Its history subsequently passed through Maratha and Mysore rule. We walked along its weathered ramparts, gateways and moat, imagining Sira as the important administrative and trading centre it once was. By the time we left, the sky had turned orange over Tumakuru. What had begun as a grey Wednesday had made for a full day of springs, forests, rock faces and forgotten forts.
NAMADA CHILUME, where legend meets the forest
Tucked inside the green Devarayanadurga forest landscape, Namada Chilume is a natural spring steeped in Ramayana lore. According to local belief, Lord Rama needed water to apply a nama or tilak to his forehead. When none was available, he shot an arrow into the rock, creating the spring. Today, cool water emerges through a small opening in the granite. The surrounding forest adds to the tranquility, with a deer enclosure and medicinal plant section maintained by the Karnataka Forest Department.