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Machilipatnam's mausoleum of love

The façade itself heralds its antiquity. It is going to be two centuries after the pale-white St. Mary’s Church was built—by a Briton, during the Raj era. That alone is not the reason f

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The façade itself heralds its antiquity. It is going to be two centuries after the pale-white St. Mary’s Church was built—by a Briton, during the Raj era. That alone is not the reason for a recent move to get the monument declared as a heritage site.

There is a poignant story of human love behind its construction— in 1815. This shrine is basically a mausoleum.

The coastal Machilipatnam’s own Taj Mahal of sorts.

The visitors at the shrine— once called Arabella’s Church— are, as chaplain G J W Ratna Rao notes, “those who have heard the story of the two ill-fated lovers”.

Wind back to 1805, when a Major-General called John Pater commandeered the British forces at Bandar Fort not far from Machilipatnam in east-central Andhra Pra desh. The officer happened to meet Arabella, daughter of his subordinate, Captain Robinson.

It was love at first sight for both. But Arabella’s father, a Catholic, would not agree to their marriage. For one, Pater was a Protestant; two, he was already married. But Arabella managed to run away and live with Pater. He was keen on solemnising the relationship, but the church did not entertain the idea.

Not long after that, on November 6, 1809, malaria claimed Arabella’s life. An inconsolable Pater sought to bury her in the traditional wedding gown at the St.

John’s Church in the fort, but failed. Pater then decided to build a church—in the name of Arabella. It was for that he bought 12.5 acres of land at Anandapuram.

Pater had the body of Arabella, embal med—and in bridal attire. Encased in a glass box, it was lowered into a grave. Every day, twice, Pater would have a look at his beloved. Later, in 1815, the church in memory of Arabella came up after he raised the money by selling away his London property.

Pater then got a transfer to Madras. He handed over the church to the East India Company, but visited it every month. In 1819, public worship was allowed at the church. Later, in 1842, Bishop of Madras, Rt Rev George Trevor Spencer, dedicated it and named it St. Mary’s.

Today, the Krishna and Godavari Diocese is working to earn the church a heritage site status. Bishop Rt Rev Govada Daivasirvadam says officials from both the ASI and the Tourism Department have visited the church. The case, he believes, is strong.

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