Jewellery is a natural aid to beauty, depicting society’s folklore that existed long before the written language or the spoken words came into existence. With the advent of commercially viable alternatives, traditional jewellery is struggling to remain relevant in today’s crowded market. Which is why Kharikhajai by Shivani Sharma is an enterprise to be appreciated and encouraged. A homegrown jewellery brand that bridges the gap between modernity and tradition through the prism of historicity, and at the same time, mirrors the rich culture of Assam.
During the Ahom dynasty, manufacture of gold and other ornaments flourished in medieval Assam. Heavily patronised by kings and queens who wore these handmade ornaments all the time, the design mostly depicted the flora and fauna of the region. Believing that this intricate and age-old craft deserved a global platform, Sharma launched the brand in March 2020.
“The idea is to empower the craftsmen of Assam and promote them in the global market as I believe their recognition is very less compared to other jewellery we see in the market today. It’s time that the original handmade craftsmanship of Assamese jewellery is given its due value in the global fashion industry today,” says Sharma, who works with karigars from Nagaon and Barpeta districts of Assam. She says it took her nearly six months to form a team as the artisans who could hand-craft the jewellery were almost extinct.
The label that derives its name from the local word for jasmine, is true to its roots and has a vintage vibe. And scrolling through Kharikhajai’s Instagram is pretty much like rifling through an antique jewellery box with pieces that hark back to old black and white movies and sepia portraitures.
“The first series of designs I made were taken from jewellery that belonged to my grandmother. Those pieces are like nostalgic stories which we hear, but rarely see in today’s generation. And that is what inspired me to come up with my first series Kahini—Stories of a Golden Era,” says Sharma.
With an assortment of rings, bracelets, bangles and neckpieces, the collection speaks volumes about Assamese rich culture and the anecdotes passed on through generations. Its two most special pieces are the Pokhila haar and the Beliphool set, designs of both of which are over 100 years old. Pure, handcrafted and nickel-free, the pieces are skin-friendly and can be worn for a long time.