NEW DELHI: In the heart of Old Delhi, where the air once shimmered with the rhythm of zardozi needles and the glint of gold and silver threads, the age-old craft of salma-sitare is fading into the past. Lanes like Suiwalan and Ballimaran, once teeming with skilled artisans creating intricate dabka, nakshi, and zari work, now stand silent.
The kaarigaars (artisans) who once brought life to these lanes have largely moved on, seeking steadier pay and faster orders in North East Delhi’s Seelampur and Noor Ilahi. The legacy of a tradition that dates back centuries is now relegated to quiet corners and forgotten corners of the city.
In Chitli Qabar, near Jama Masjid, a handful of women still carry on the tradition, their hands weaving the delicate threads that evoke memories of a lost time. The shimmer of their work is a stubborn reminder of a craft that once defined this part of Delhi.
Yet, these artisans are few. The remaining vestiges of the craft survive in Kinari Bazar, where thread shops still stock zari in an array of colours and materials, although the artisans themselves are often unseen, working in private workshops far from public view.
Journey Of An Artisan
Bablu Khan, an artisan now working with a boutique in Seelampur, offers a glimpse into the changing nature of the craft. He was purchasing zari threads from one of Kinari Bazar’s shops when we met him.
Khan, who once worked in the lanes of Old Delhi, has now relocated to Seelampur to join Ruby, a boutique that specialices in custom embroidery. “We design and customise embroidery for high-profile fashion designers like Tarun Tahiliani,” he said.
“We have a ‘kaarkhana’ where all the embroidery is done manually.” Khan explained the painstaking nature of the craft. “Har taar, har design, eke k moti haath se pirona hota hai,” he noted, recalling how every thread, bead, and design used to be painstakingly worked by hand. “Now, machines have made it easier, but people still appreciate handwork. It’s more personal, more meaningful.”
In Seelampur, where these boutique workers have moved to, Khan’s team continues to work on fabric stretched on wooden frames, known as “addas,” perfecting the intricate designs that have been passed down through generations. The irony is quite stark: though these pieces are now being created for luxury brands and high-end bridal lehengas, the artisans’ craft is no longer visible in the very lanes where it was born.
Old Delhi’s Fading Craft
Once a centre for the finest hand-embroidery, Suiwalan, a lane in Old Delhi, was famous for the fine zardozi and nakshi work that adorned everything from bridal lehengas to royal attire. The intricate kaamdani work, with its shimmering gold and silver threads, was a signature of Old Delhi.
“Suiwalan used to sparkle, even without lights,” said Naghma, a tailor in Punjabi Pathak who still stitches old-style ghararas.
“The gold and silver threads would catch the sun as the kaarigaars worked on their verandahs. Their eyes, sharp with years of experience, would create designs with the utmost precision, every stitch deliberate and every sparkle earned.”
Today, that tradition is almost gone. The old kaarigaars, skilled in their craft, have moved to Seelampur and Noor Ilahi in search of steadier incomes. They now work in boutique workshops or export houses, where the focus is on bulk orders and faster delivery times. The personal touch that once defined the art of salma-sitare is now reserved for luxury brands, far removed from the original lanes of Old Delhi.
Changing Market
In Kinari Bazaar, one of the oldest hubs of zari trade, shopkeepers lament the decline of hand-embroidered work. Hitendra Jariwala, owner of Manherlal Mohanlal & Company, a zari shop in Tiraha Bazar, said, “The market has shifted.” He added, “Kinari Bazar used to be crowded with artisans buying zari threads for their next masterpiece. Now, it’s mostly a supplier’s stop. The artisans come, pick their gold, silver, or antique copper threads, and disappear into distant workshops.”
Jariwala, whose family has been in the zari business since 1935, recalled how zari work, which originated in Persia over 300 years ago, was brought to India by the Mughals.
“Our grandfather used to tell us that Zari zardozi originated in Persia at least 300 years ago, with the term meaning ‘embroidering with gold threads’. While zardozi often makes use of precious metal threads, dabka tends to employ brilliantly coloured threads. While zardozi is known for its intricate patterns and designs, dabka is known for its simpler geometric patterns. We don’t have personal workers who do embroidery but we only deal with some loyal customers who now work at boutiques,” he added.
The Price of Craft
In Chandni Chowk, where some shops still stock hand-embroidered lehengas, the difference between machine-embroidered and hand-embroidered pieces is glaring. A lehenga with true handwork can command a much higher price than its machine-embroidered counterpart.
Abdullah, a shopkeeper near Gurudwara, explained, “The new generation often asks for machine embroidery, but once they see the hand-embroidered lehengas, they change their minds. They prefer the old craftsmanship, the ‘haath ka kaam.’” For many young brides, the appeal of handwork remains strong. Some customers bring in designs from social media, asking for custom creations. These designs are then sent to workshops in Seelampur, where the embroidery is done by hand, he added.
In the old lanes of Turkman Gate, where the craft once thrived, no one seems to know of any remaining workers who still embroider manually.