MALAPPURAM: The grandparents travelled to Karachi from Keralam, their children grew up between two cultures, and their grandchildren took to speaking in Urdu, over Malayalam. Yet, more than a century after their ancestors settled in Pakistan, the community continues to hold on to an identity shaped by the land of their forefathers. Through food, family traditions and cultural bonds, a little piece of Keralam has endured across generations, even as life around it has changed.
An estimated 10,000 people who trace their roots to Keralam live in Pakistan, with a sizeable number concentrated in Karachi. Their migration stories, however, are far from uniform. While several families moved to the port city in search of livelihood, others arrived as part of their military service during the British era.
Established in 1921, the Malabar Muslim Jamaat has played a central role in bringing these families together and keeping their ancestral connections alive.
For many Malayali migrants, the journey to establishing themselves began with humble tea shops. Over the decades, these small businesses grew into restaurants, giving generations a livelihood while introducing the flavours of Malabar to Pakistan. Today, the community has a sizeable presence in Karachi’s food and hospitality sector, with hundreds of eateries serving Keralam cuisine.
“When my ancestors first arrived, they started a small tea shop. With the kindness and support of Pakistanis, the business gradually grew into a restaurant. We predominantly serve Indian and Malabar food. By God’s grace, everything is going well. There are hundreds of Malabari restaurants run by people of Malayali origin here,” says Abdul Rasheed, who runs one in Karachi.
For Mehmood Ali, president of the Malabar Muslim Jamaat Pakistan, the community’s history goes back even further. His ancestors, originally from Thiruvananthapuram, arrived in Karachi before the Jamaat was established and served in the British Navy.
“My grandparents and other relatives were part of the British military stationed in Karachi. After Partition, my family chose to continue their naval careers in the Pakistan Navy. However, our connection with Keralam remained strong for decades,” he says.
Until the 1980s, families would travel to their ancestral villages almost every year, keeping close ties with relatives back home. Changing government policies and circumstances gradually made such journeys less frequent. Yet, the distance has not severed those connections. “Phone calls and family networks continue to keep us connected. We still know our relatives and our ancestral family backgrounds in Keralam,” says Mehmood.
If anything, food has proved to be a more enduring bridge between the two worlds. A wedding feast in Karachi is hardly complete without erachi pathiri. Puttu and idli remain regular breakfast choices, while Malabar biryani, upma and other Kerala snacks are part of family gatherings and everyday meals. Traditional Keralam attire also remains a preferred choice for weddings and special occasions.
Language, meanwhile, tells the story of a changing identity. While older generations spoke Malayalam at home and passed it on to their children, Urdu has increasingly become the preferred language among younger members born and raised in Pakistan.
But Malayalam has not disappeared from their lives. Cinema has become one of the ways in which the community remains connected to Keralam.
“I watch at least four to five Malayalam films every week,” Mehmood says, adding that family gatherings and community cricket teams participating in local tournaments also help sustain the community’s bond. Around 95% of marriages within the community reportedly take place among its own members, further strengthening family networks and cultural ties. Mehmood says the community has never faced discrimination in Pakistan and has been treated equally by the government.
Transcending borders
If anything, food has proved to be a more enduring bridge between the two worlds
Traditional Keralam attire also remains a choice for weddings and occasions
Language, meanwhile, is a changing identity