BHUBANESWAR: A Lord Ganesh artwork made using different Odisha Ikat patterns is what catches your eye the moment you step into ‘Raas’.
The designs on the piece have been created by this Bhubaneswar-based artisanal handloom label itself, offering a visual summary of what the brand does. At ‘Aaroh’, its recent exhibition in the city, Raas aimed to showcase just that: a mosaic of different handloom traditions from across the country under one roof.
For the first time, this edition of Aaroh brought together indigenous pan-Indian weaves. Alongside Raas’ signature creations, rich Banarasi, Chanderi, Patan Patola and Paithani sarees welcomed visitors in a warm embrace as they walked around the exhibition.
Founder Rashmi Mohapatra said the idea was to allow local customers a one-stop view and understanding of the distinct character of each weave, keeping the festive and wedding season in mind. The idea was evident throughout the collection displayed at Aaroh. Traditional Odisha motifs appeared in unique colour combinations, compositions and textures, giving them a fresh and innovative appeal.
“I believe Odisha’s traditional Ikat needs to be pushed beyond familiar formats so that they don’t appear repetitive or monotonous and could connect with the new generation while staying relevant to the older ones,” she shared.
The designs, Rashmi said, are created in close coordination with internationally-acclaimed designer Pritam Panda and her daughter Ritika. “The fabric too is made by us from scratch. We do not buy or source it from anywhere else. From fabric to design to production, everything is our own. We even create customised pieces for clients, including bridal wear,” she explained.
At present, Raas primarily works with artisans from Nuapatna (Cuttack), Barpali (Bargarh), Sambalpur, Gopalpur and Pipili, among others. “Our team comprises around 50 people and we have around eight to 10 looms. It takes around two to three weeks or sometimes even six months for our weavers to craft a saree, depending on the designs and intricacies,” Rashmi said.
Beyond the gorgeous six-yard beauties, handcrafted Ikat clutches in leather, tote bags, Chanderi dupattas, suit pieces and fusion blouses also dotted the exhibition that had visitors in awe. The clutches were priced around Rs 6,000-Rs 7,000, mini tote bags around Rs 10,000 to Rs 11,000, while the sarees cost from Rs 27,000 to over Rs 40,000.
On sourcing the non-Odisha collection showcased at the exhibition, Rashmi said they collaborated with artisans and designers from Baroda and Ahmedabad in Gujarat, Banaras in Uttar Pradesh and Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh to bring the exquisite pieces.
Regarding her other collections at Raas, Rashmi said they also create Ikat jackets, trench coats and other contemporary garments, which have also found buyers outside Odisha. “I am interested in how the younger generation, particularly women, can style handloom differently. It’s a trend among the Gen Z to wear different blouses with the same saree for a modern look. For example, one can pair a halter neck blouse with a handloom saree. It will look polished and stylish,” she suggested.
Based in Bhubaneswar since 2014, Raas has over the years showcased its work at Who’s Next, Paris Market Week, Pure London Fashion Trade Show, the Crafts Council of India, FDCI’s Odisha Parba, among others, taking Odisha’s handloom artistry to audiences across India and abroad. The collection at Raas can be explored at its store in Patia, and website www.raaslabel.com.