TIRUCHY: With his handwoven veshti, white fur cap, and trademark dark glasses, AIADMK stalwart MG Ramachandran commanded an audience that hung on his every word. The veshti he wore was never just attire; it was an identity, theatre, and a message woven into one. Party loyalists wore it as a badge of honour, while leaders handed it out to foster their bond with the people.
But the landscape has completely changed in the past two decades. Once a symbol of political patronage, Thathaiyangarpet’s handwoven veshtis have since lost their sheen. Even the current election season has failed to revive the fortunes of this weaving cluster, marking the end of an era where fabric and politics were inextricably linked.
According to Vellamandi N Natarajan, a former AIADMK minister from Tiruchy, the tradition of distributing handwoven veshtis found its peak during MGR’s era. “Back in the 2000s, we used to buy Thathaiyangarpet veshtis in bundles and distribute it to party workers,” says Natarajan. But the situation has changed completely over the past two decades, with only a handful of politicians continuing to buy traditional handwoven veshtis and others shifting to cheaper and branded options.
Thathaiyangarpet, known for its premium handwoven cotton veshtis comparable to Kerala’s Balaramapuram variety, was once a thriving hub during polls. For the weavers there, the poll season meant assured income and sustained work. That trend has now weakened a lot. From 100 weaving families across three colonies, the number has dropped to around 20-30, with barely 10-15 still actively engaged in weaving.
Artisans say the decline is due to changing market preferences. “During my father’s time, senior leaders used to place bulk orders. That has reduced over the years,” says Nedumaran Arapalli (53), a third-generation weaver.
The pricing gap also remains a challenge. A handwoven Thathaiyangarpet veshti takes 2-3 hours to produce and costs above Rs 700. In contrast, powerloom-made veshtis are available for as low as Rs 200, making them more attractive for bulk purchases. “We cannot compete with those rates. Our veshtis have their grandeur, but buyers are looking for cheaper options,” Arapalli says.
With local demand shrinking, many weavers have shifted focus to Kerala, where handwoven veshtis still find market. Weavers recall their peak years with pride, including supplying veshtis to MGR, who wore a Balaramapuram-style veshti while retaining a TN design identity.
The present reality, however, is far removed. A Rajagopal, a weaver, points to lack of interest among younger generations. Traditionally practised by Saliya Chettiar community, the craft is now seeing fewer entrants. “It is time-consuming and doesn’t fetch much income. On an average, we earn Rs 15,000 to Rs 20,000 a month,” he says.
As campaigns become more cost-driven, the traditional link between politics and handloom seems to be shrinking. However, for Thathaiyangarpet’s weavers, the fading poll-season demand is not just a loss of business but a gradual decline of legacy.