HYDERABAD: Despite growing appreciation for India’s handloom heritage, traditional weavers are grappling with an existential crisis. Mass-produced powerloom sarees, often made elsewhere but falsely marketed as genuine handloom, are saturating the market.
This misrepresentation not only misleads consumers but also cripples authentic artisans, pushing them into unsustainable price wars and threatening centuries-old traditions.
Thati Shekar of Vastra Kalakar Handlooms and Handicrafts Producer Company told TNIE, “Apart from rising production costs, the biggest challenge is the influx of printed sarees. A genuine handloom saree can cost up to Rs 9,000, but machine-printed ones are sold for Rs 3,000–4,000. This price gap severely undermines our efforts. Despite our skill and labour, we’re pressured by middlemen to sell at unreasonably low prices.”
Weavers allege the government has failed to check the sale of fake handlooms, despite issuing licences to such manufacturers. “We urge consumers to be cautious. The government has done little. Enforcement is weak, and officials appear to be colluding with big showrooms,” said Yelugam Sambaiah, president, Kshtranji Chenetha Sahakara Sangam.
Though the Geographical Indication (GI) Act came into effect in 2004, stakeholders say there has been no serious effort since to protect handloom products. Of the 18 GI-tagged items in the state, seven belong to the handloom sector.
“No dedicated funds or enforcement mechanisms have been set up,” said Lav Kumar, secretary, Pochampally Tie and Dye Association. “Weavers are forced to sell Rs 6,000–10,000 sarees for as little as Rs 500–1,000. We’ve approached public representatives, but the response has been lukewarm. We need a dedicated corpus fund to fight this.”
IP practitioner at Resolute, Subhajit Saha, added, “GI tags aren’t enough. We need copyright protection for weavers’ designs, and a GI board to oversee enforcement. It is a collective right so it also needs collective efforts.”
Earlier this year, the state approved a Rs 33 crore loan waiver for weavers, but there is no information about its status of implementation.
“Regulating the powerloom sector alone will not revive the handloom industry,” said Shailaja Ramaiyer, Principal Secretary, Handlooms and Textiles Department. “Branding, tagging, and increasing consumer awareness are essential. Educating buyers can help them identify and differentiate genuine handloom products.
The market is flooded, and even some weavers are using powerlooms. Initiatives like Telangana’s Nethanna Bharosa scheme aim to tag and certify authentic products with a weaving label to ensure traceability. Even the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985, needs to be updated to reflect today’s consumer requirements. The Government of India has sought inputs from state governments, and we have submitted ours.”