Entering Embassy restaurant in Connaught Place is like stepping into another Delhi in another time. Photographs of the city in the 1950s cover the walls and as customers, mainly aged between 40 and 50 years, settle in, the restaurant becomes a refuge from the hustle-bustle outside. Tea and Embassy Pudding, probably the most-ordered items on the menu, are passed around as though free. The managers tell us that those sitting are loyal customers who have never missed a day at their favourite haunt. “I have been coming here for the past 40 years. In fact, I met my wife here for the first time, before we got hitched,” quips retired government official Ajay Ghoomar in agreement.
When Karachi businessmen N Malhotra and G K Ghai opened The Embassy Restaurant in 1948, it was the only eatery in D-Block. Serving Indian and Continental cuisine, the restaurant soon became a hot favorite of celebrities and politicians.
Today, the restaurant is run by Malhotra’s son Sunil and Ghai’s grandson Rajnish Bahl who are managing partners. Pitching in as well is Sunil’s son Savar, though not in an official capacity.
Commenting on the transition of the city and its culture, the partners say their restaurant’s old-world charm is a huge draw.
“I used to accompany my grandfather as a child, and nothing in the restaurant has changed since. We have the same menu, a lot many similar faces and the same consistent quality. In fact, there are clients who first came to the restaurant in the 1950s and have been coming back since. We also haven’t touched the seating arrangement,” says Bahl. Considered one of Delhi’s heritage restaurants, it offers a selection of food that customers swear by.
“A lot many restaurants have opened, but if you notice the trend, they are all catering to the ‘young’ crowd. What about those in their 40s, 50s and 60s, where will they go? Also, our focus has never been alcohol, which is a major attraction in most other places. It’s just an added advantage here. We are a family restaurant and we would like to keep it that way. Two days ago, a family of four generations came to the restaurant, so we must be doing something right to maintain customer loyalty,” says Sunil.
The partners admit that Embassy has faced stiff competition in the recent past from new eateries and also because of changing tastes. “Clients were not open to experimenting with food earlier. What we offered was called Continental but it was more fusion, since it was prepared to suit the Indian palate. I’ve seen the trend change over the last 25 years. Now, people are more experimental, they try different cuisines abroad and ask for it here,” says Bahl.
Sunil, however, adds that though they tried to cater to newer tastes, they had not been able to change the menu. “We tried experimenting with the menu but faced stiff resistance from our customers. We finally realised that at Embassy, you can add something to the menu but nothing can be deleted,” he says. Bahl adds, “There used be a joke that if somebody wanted to know what’ll happen in Parliament tomorrow, they should come to Embassy. We would have politicians from every party hanging out from 10 am to 12.30 pm.”
The 65-year-old restaurant has tables reserved for regulars. “One comes everyday from Noida, travelling almost an hour just for a cup of tea. Our first table is reserved for him. In fact, we have customers who have 9.30 am to 11.30 am at The Embassy written on their visiting cards,” says Savar. “Although we have many options, places like Embassy reflect what Delhi was meant to be, a peaceful and culturally rich city.”