Vikas Narula is a non-conformist, but he’s always out there to please. The best way to do that, he says, is through food. At his newly opened restaurant, Depot 29, Narula, who shifted base from Australia to India a year ago, is finding his footing, both as an individual and as a restaurateur. While in the process of acclimatising himself to the city, he is on his own. He’s thankful, on the other hand, for having good support in his restaurant business. Partnering with him is his brother-in-law Girjashanker Vohra, along with the diva of Italian gastronomy, Chef Ritu Dalmia. Think he’s in safe hands.
The restaurant itself is at a great location. The enormous French windows stretch your views to the horizon, where the light from the glistening orange sun settles comfortably over the rich foliage of the Deer Park, about a hundred yards away. If you go on a drippy monsoon day, when the dark clouds gather to pour, you may even spot a peahen putting up a happy dance on one of the roof tops. The shape of the leaves from the shade of the trees towering right up to the second floor fall sublimely on the pristine white plates. Depot 29 in a sense, combines the wild outdoors with the sophisticated indoors, seamlessly.
Both floors of the restaurant lend themselves to great music and even better food. The place has been acoustically treated and a small wooden triangle area has been kept away for independent performances. The dedication to music is reiterated through thoughtful musical symbolisms on the pillars like the bright illustrations of cassette tapes and CDs. Near the entrance to the second floor is a showcase of really old cassette cases, gathered from friends, family, relatives and even strangers. ‘‘We take our music very seriously and the interiors narrate the same story. We have the same regard for all genres. In fact, just yesterday, we had a jazz performance. A few nights before, we had a folk night,’’ says Vohra, adding, ‘‘In addition to musical shows, we’ll be organising other kinds of interactive sessions as well.’’
Backing and supporting the boys in delivering the results is Ritu, who in her usual excited self tells us how happy she is for this latest adventure. ‘‘Depot 29 is a place which has great food and entertainment. This combination was something I have always missed in Delhi. The boys are trying to achieve this fabulous mix and I couldn’t be happier,’’ she says.
Making sure all those aspirations are met logistically is Narula, the man responsible for the front of the house. If you find a tall, olive-skinned debonair sweeping the floor or clearing the tables, know it’s him. ‘‘Leading by example is important and having lived abroad for so many years, it comes naturally,’’ says the first-time restaurateur, who despite being an engineer didn’t think twice before shifting back. Having trained under Ritu, Narula today has become a pro. ‘‘The pressure of living up to her expectations is plenty. She’s a great friend but when work starts, she’s the toughest taskmaster. No wonder all her restaurants are doing so well, especially in terms of food,’’ says Narula.
Talking of which, even at Depot 29, the menu is replete with quintessential Ritu Dalmia presentations and plating. There’s a bit of everything, and the sincerity and ambition of the chef glimmer through the choices on offer. Take, for instance, the savoury waffles, the Mumbai-style Vada Burger and the distinctively flavoured guacamoles—all go an extra mile to make the customers happy. There are other items like tacos, quesadillas, burgers and more, which are equally good. ‘‘I think we’ve managed to put together a good mix,’’ says Narula, who confesses he still loves maa ke haath ka palak paneer over anything else the restaurant has to offer.