SRINAGAR is often treated like a checklist, which is a shame because the city’s soul isn’t in the monuments themselves, but in the slow rituals happening around it. You notice Srinagar in pieces first — a reflection in the water, a stretch of mountains in the distance, the rhythm of a boat moving past you.
Dal Lake has been the poster and go-to reference point of this Kashmiri city. Shikaras move steadily across the serene water, cutting through reflections of the Zabarwan range. Early in the morning is the only time the lake isn’t touristy. It’s when you’ll see vendors glide past with warm traditional kahwah tea, flowers, fruits and saffron, turning the lake into a floating marketplace. Don’t just sip on tea; look for the warm street snacks like Nadir Monji (lotus stem fritters).
Once you have seen the lake up close, it’s also important to get a different perspective on this star attraction, so you must head towards the Zabarwan range, where the gardens — boasting panoramic views of Dal Lake — await. Representing the Persian influence on Kashmir, the Mughal gardens — Shalimar Bagh and Nishat Bagh — are laid out in terraces that step gently downward, each level opening into fountains, pathways and views of the lake. Follow the water backwards here, while looking for the small stone channels and try to spot where the mountain water enters the garden. It’s an engineering marvel that doesn’t use a single pump.
The summer months are special in Srinagar as the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden adds a burst of colours against the hills and during autumn, the same landscape turns into a gilded sanctuary where the majestic Chinar trees ignite in shades of burnt orange and crimson, blanketing the ground in a golden carpet that crackles underfoot. The route then takes you to Pari Mahal, a mid-1600s palace built by Dara Shikoh, designed as a sufi learning centre and an astronomical observatory. It features a seven-terraced Mughal garden, adorned with vibrant flowers and fruit trees, magnolias and arched corridors with octagonal bastions. The last stop on this range is the Shankaracharya Temple, which represents the ancient, pre-Islamic history of Kashmir. The stone blocks at the base are massive and date back over a thousand years. Once you climb up to the shrine, try to spot the Jhelum River’s ‘snake’ curve, where you can see how the city was literally carved by the water.
Now, we venture into the soul — the Old City — where Jama Masjid and Habba Kadal sit on the banks of the Jhelum River. Jama Masjid is one of the best examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture (wood and stone). Supported by 370 soaring wooden pillars made from deodar, the mosque is built around a central courtyard based on the traditional Chaar Bagh plan. The entrance gates and ceilings feature detailed Kashmiri wood carvings, papier-mâché work and floral motifs.
Similarly, the Khanqah of Shah Hamadan is built primarily from timber without a single nail in its original design. Its tiered pyramidal roof and towering spire are iconic symbols of the Old City. Located on the right bank of the Jhelum River, it was built in 1395 to honour Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, the Persian saint who is said to have brought pashmina to Kashmir.
Speaking of pashmina, to truly appreciate the fabric, one must move beyond simply shopping at a boutique and into the weaver’s workshop. Saving the best for last, we arrive at the Habba Kadal bridge, originally built in the 1550s. This newly renovated pedestrian-only heritage bridge is no longer just a way to get across the river but the city’s new favourite hangout. Here, you can sit right over the Jhelum beneath beautifully carved wooden gazebos, with warm old-style lamps that reflect off the water, making it look like a scene from a painting, especially during sunset.