Bengaluru

The land of fairy chimneys

Saloni Mittal

Surrounded by ‘fairy chimneys’, the cinnamon-coloured town of Goreme in Cappadocia(Turkey), is a natural art gallery of sorts snatched right out of one of the Grimms Brothers’ tales.

The dwellings, churches, rock formations and open museums are remnants of the Byzantine era.  The quaint, cobbled alleys are lined with volcanic rock formations called fairy chimneys, which have been converted into hotels. In fact, the hotel rooms are exotic caves, possessing every kind of modern amenity.

Although, in the Goreme Open Air Museum you can get a feel of the Byzantine period, small churches at every other turn also depict the enriching history. As the sun sets, the town glows in golden hues, making for a spectacular sight.

Go up in a Balloon

Goreme is specifically known for hot air ballooning. Early in the morning, you are whisked in the air in a colourful giant balloon. The view of the fairy chimneys and the town which is still asleep is absolutely breathtaking. Those who are scared of heights need not fret. From your hotel window, you can see hundreds of balloons rising silently in the air, the view putting you in a meditative state.

Where to stay 

A tete-a-tete with a Turk in Istanbul resulted in our stay at the Paradise Hotel, which boasts  of a terrace restaurant, buffet meals and exotic cave rooms. The owner Muk, a young lad of 28 was friendly and also became our guide. A host of options to select from, accommodation is not a problem here. The terrace restaurant turned out to be our favourite hangout. Complete with small wooden furniture, a cafe and Turkish carpets, the restaurant also gave a bewitching view of the town. The buffet breakfast comprised of eggs, toast and Turkish Tea.

A shopping experience

Travelling around Goreme does not need an itinerary. The magical vibes echoing from the town spell ebullience. In the heart of the city, lies the market place. A small cluster of shops, that sell Turkish souvenirs, dolls, miniature hot air balloons, leather jewellery, silk bags and  carpets constitute the shopping area. Wide, clean roads with ginger bread houses haphazardly lined at random turns, makes Goreme, a village from a fairy tale.

As in any other tourist town, you have to really bargain to get your way with shopkeepers. But it is definitely a better place to shop than Istanbul. You can buy a truckload of souvenirs like refrigerator magnets for just 1 Lira.

After sunset, shopkeepers sit on wooden stools outside their shops and welcome tourists to share Turkish tea and their experiences.

Experiment with Turkish Cuisine

You will be spoilt for choice here. Open cafes line the entire market place. The cafes are a homespun affair and the delicious food is cooked by the family of the owner and is delicious to say the least. After a day of experimenting, we finally zeroed in on The Safak Cafe. Abbas and his mother proved to be perfect hosts. The excitement of Indians in their cafe led them to continuously sing Bollywood songs while serving food. Abbas had been on a Bharat Darshan a few years ago and sent us to fits of laughter with his chaste Hindi.

Ditch the English/ American cuisine here and try what the Turks have to offer. Gozleme,  (a savoury pastry of hand-rolled dough stuffed with mushroom and cheese) is highly recommended. You can also try the Meze platter, a combination of small dishes. All cafes offer a whole menu of vegetarian food and aubergines figure prominently in these. If you think that Turkish food is all about meat, then you are in for a surprise.

A memorable evening

On the last day of our visit, we sat and recollected our memories, silhouetted by the setting sun and our tempers sweetened by a bottle of exotic Turkish Red wine. The fading rays of the sun illuminated the evening as we sat huddled around a wooden table on a terrace garden, sipping the wine and eating crackers with cream cheese.

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