There was a time when a bugadi came with a certain set of expectations – a particular piercing, a specific kind of jewellery and, more often than not, traditional attire. That rulebook seems to be loosening now. The small ornament worn on the upper cartilage has taken on a playful, even rebellious, character with the ability to change the mood of an entire look. Once associated with regional jewellery traditions, the bugadi is now being paired with ear chains, danglers, denim and even evening gowns.
For entertainment and lifestyle creator Prerana, her interest in bugadi began at home. Her mother wore bugadis during her college days, and when Prerana asked for one, they went together to get it pierced. What began as a family connection has since become an everyday accessory. “I’m too lazy to change my bugadi for every outfit. Thankfully, the one I’m wearing matches with traditional clothes and Western outfits,” she says. Instead, she switches up the earrings around it, keeping the small ornament constant.
Celebrity stylist Rukmini Nitin sees the mix of familiarity and fashion as central to the accessory’s renewed appeal. “Living away from where we grew up, we tend to look for things that reconnect us with memories of what we have seen and experienced earlier,” she says, pointing out that the bugadi carries meaning beyond its size. “The fact that it sits on the upper cartilage of the ear, its shape, pattern and the way it interacts with the rest of the jewellery can create a different emotion.” Fashion content creator Shivani Jai takes that idea into the realm of Indian maximalism. “Indians have been doing jewellery stacking for a while. Bugadis add that extra-ness to a look without even trying. I love the idea of pairing a bugadi with an ear chain. It adds personality to the look,” she says.
Styling one doesn’t call for a wardrobe overhaul. Jai suggests starting with pieces already in the closet. Her rule is simple: ‘Make it yours’. “Fusion, Y2K, denim, even a maxi skirt can work when everything is styled intentionally. The key is making the jewellery feel like an extension of your personal style,” she opines, adding that experimenting with traditional jewellery should come with an appreciation of where it comes from. The contemporary bugadi need not look particularly traditional. Nitin suggests choosing a smaller piece to wear with a cotton or linen jacket and trousers, denim and a tank top or even a pre-draped mundu.
The jewellery market is also mirroring this shift. “Bugadis are now being paired with almost anything and everything, with demand ranging from minimal pieces to larger, more visible designs. Traditional gold styles continue to have their place, while silver has become a space for experimentation, including Rava-work designs and contemporary interpretations,” says Divya Batra, founder of popular accessory brand Quirksmith. She notes a surge in bugadi ear piercings during festive seasons. “ Even though extreme multiple piercings have sort of vanished because of the discomfort, the bugadi piercing seems to stay,” she adds.
The Bugadi traces its history to ancient Indian traditions, where upper-ear ornaments were associated with royalty and elegance. Deeply rooted in Maharashtra, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, the ornament is known by different names across regions, including koppu in Tamil Nadu and parts of Karnataka. There are also traditions around where and when the piercing is done. Prerana admits she knew little about its history when she got hers. “I was drawn to it because it looked cool and elegant – it offered a balance, not too much and not too little,” she says. Nitin believes knowing the background matters, even if one does not study every regional detail. “When we bring something from our heritage into a contemporary context, it is always better to do that with some understanding,” she says.