CHENNAI might not be synonymous with fashion but designers today have changed the way Chennaiites look at innovative costumes. A handful of designers have brought in a sea of change in Kollywood with their designs and this has made Tamil cinema only become more stylish and colourful. Heroes aren‘t spotted wearing gaudy clothes in dance sequences today, and pose a sad look with subtle costumes in the films. They have become more trendy with bright and matching outfits, which is synonymous with the international fashion trend. Most of the outfits in films have also set a trend among the fans. Heroines are not far behind the heroes in this regard. Glamourous, classy and, sometimes, sexy outfits have only charged up the images of the leading ladies. Thanks to the city-based designers, Kollywood has become fashion conscious. Expresso spoke to a few designers who influenced the costume design aspect in films besides making Chennaiites set fashion statements
Sidney Sladen
There cannot be a fashion-conscious person in the city who hasn‘t heard of him or hasn‘t owned a piece of his collection. But designer Sidney Sladen, besides his label named after him, has been making waves in the filmdom too. His first film was Five Star, produced by Maniratnam. And from Dhum, he has designed every costume for Silambarasan, including the popular costume with lights in the song Vechikava in 'Silambattam'. “We got people from Mumbai to work on the lights on Simbu’s costumes. Here, filmmakers want clothes that are funky and look like everyday casual clothes,” he observes, adding that colours play an important role in designing costumes for films. A huge fan of the Superstar, Sidney used to collect his pictures since his childhood and now has an album of his hero’s photographs. But his dream of working with Rajinikanth came true in Chandramukhi when he designed a few denims and shirts out the 200 total costumes that were designed for the Superstar for the film. “I have never seen a star so humble like him. I still remember how he obliged to pose with all his fans in the flight for a picture on our way to Hyderabad for the shoot,” he recalls. Sidney has also designed for Shriya and Koundamani for 'Jaggubhai' and Namitha, besides launching his Spring/Summer collection 2009.
Erum Ali
Erum Ali began her journey has a designer in films when she started designing for her actor-husband Abbas. Erum Ali has, most recently, designed clothes for Selvaraghavan's Karthi-Reema-Andrea starrer 'Ayirathil Oruvan'. "The most interesting part of designing for this film was the period part, about which I can't reveal more," she says.
Vivek Karunakaran
He is a known face in the Indian fashion scene. Vivek has been showcasing in the Lakme Fashion Week for a few years now. He has come up with a Spring/Summer for this year too. Having etched his name in the fashion industry with his label Viia, Vivek has now ventured into Kollywood with the Ajith-starrer 'Asal'.
“Designing for films is a world of difference. There needs to be design aesthetics and an inspiration to work on a collection for the label. They are not going to be individual pieces on the racks,” he says. To him, outfits in films can be larger than life and needn’t be practical, though it has its own constraints like the budgets and the actor’s style quotient. It is all about executing the whole look, giving attention to detail and doing justice to the film. “I accepted 'Asal' because Sivaji Films is a good banner to start with. But I will be very selective when it comes to choosing films and I respect serious fashion,” he says. The designer is reinventing Ajith‘s look, and says it is something no other actor has ever had in Tamil cinema.
“He’ll look sheek and stylish,” he adds.
Chaitanya Rao
Chaitanya Rao might not look as old as he speaks but his experience in the film industry dates back to Minnale when he designed costumes for the song Vaseegara. He has since designed for many top heroines including Asin for 'Ghajini', 'Sivakasi' and 'Maja', Vikram for 'Maja' and now Shriya for 'Kandasamy' (styling for the shoot), Kutty and 'Thoranai'. For Chaitanya, who has been designing for films for 15 years, it’s totally a director’s medium and not that of the designer’s, though there is a lot of scope for showcasing dramatic costumes. “But there is a lot of pressure in films. You have to deal with a lot of people and I am sure Bollywood is much better in choosing costumes than Kollywood,” says Chaitanya, adding that producers here do not spend much money on costumes. “My style is very trendy and I use a lot of bright colours,” he says. Though he does not find time to work for his label, his swimsuit collection that he showcased in the Lakme fashion Week 2009 is still selling like hot cakes.
Tina Vincent
Tina has been in the film industry since 2002 but the designer has moved completely out of it, finding it too hard to manage. Not in terms of the deadline and the talent it demands, but of the fact, she says that there is absolutely no respect for a costume designer.
“It’s ridiculous. Even a stunt director and a set designer gets better respect and the industry is so disorganised,” says Tina who has not worked for any film for the past year. The producers don’t spend enough money for costumes as opposed to what they spend for the actors and the sets. “Moreover, they don’t give any credit to the designers though some give it now,” she says. Tina has designed for films Sila Neranagalil and for actors including Vindhiya and Sona. Though she has been getting offers, she hasn't chosen any.
Tina Vincent owns a store named after her, where she now designs trousseau for South Indian and Christian weddings besides designing XXL clothes.