We took a little trip to Karnataka — after all, plopping onto your neighbour’s courtyard every now and then is the neighbourly thing to do, isn’t it? And if they offer you a meal, you simply do not refuse. At Feast, Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel, Chef Spoorthi TN treated us to a deliciously homely experience featuring ancestral dishes and coastal delights in a pop-up called ‘The Southern Table’, presented by Southern Aura.
We were welcomed with a vibrant marigold-coloured drink called Muskmelon Panaka, a soothing blend of muskmelon, cardamom, jaggery and just a whisper of lemon juice. The hints of edible camphor in the divine concoction made us momentarily wander off to Tirupati devalayam for a devotional stroll, before we were gently brought back to Karnataka as our noses picked up diverse scents from the thali before us.
We smiled in glee; a thali means you are the master of your own palate — you can mix, match, and even have dessert first if you like! And that’s exactly what we did, digging right into the wobbly, inviting Ilaneer Soufflé. This tropical soufflé, made with tender coconut pulp, was light, fresh and sweet… ah, knocking on heaven’s doors, are we?
But when the palate craved contrast, we snacked on the Balakai (banana) Tawa Fry and Banana Leaf Tawa-Fried Fish. The beauty of the latter was how the earthiness of the banana leaf infused the soft fish with a subtle, smoky aroma. Both were perfect rainy day snacks!
But all five southern states love to include a cool favourite: the humble and friendly Cucumber Coconut Salad. For us, this was a palate cleanser of sorts before we entered the big leagues — we took a bowl of Kootu, a Mysuru-style mixed veg curry, and poured it generously over the Neey Choru or ghee-tossed rice. Greedily taking a handful of this drool-inducing combination, we chomped away every bit of its deliciousness. “The Kootu is made with onion, tomato, coconut, poppy seeds, and sambar powder, which I prepare fresh at home,” Chef Spoorthi says. The rice also went well with the Dali Tove, Mangaluru-style tempered yellow lentils. While north Indians at the table likened it to dal, south Indians dubbed it a distant cousin of rasam.
The Neypathiri Poori, an Udupi-style poori flavoured with fennel, coconut and cumin, was a crunchy sidekick to the Natti Koli Saru and Military Hotel Mutton. “The mutton dish draws its name from Bengaluru, where there are many military hotels. The recipe itself is from a friend’s mother; I tweaked it slightly by adding a coconut-based gravy,” she reveals.
Hailing from Mandya, Chef Spoorthi’s culinary journey began early; she would frequently whip up dishes for her family, who suggested she turn passion into profession. In Mandya, a district in Karnataka known for its agricultural prowess, fresh produce and koli (chicken) farms are very important. “My ajji (grandmother) would cut the chicken fresh — and that made all the difference,” Chef Spoorthi proudly recalls. “The Naati Koli Saru, cooked in coconut milk with freshly ground spices, pairs beautifully with Ottu Shavige… that’s how we eat it back home,” she shares.
Rolling up our sleeves for Ottu Shavige was the highlight. Chef Spoorthi’s heirloom press turned dough into light noodles, topped with a drizzle of hing-tempered coconut milk. Each bite was a soft, spiced revelation, perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Chef Spoorthi’s pop-up was a heartfelt ode to Karnataka, reviving forgotten home-style recipes with finesse. Her mission? To share the taste of home. By the time we finished our meals, we were ready for a good afternoon nap — and isn’t that the true mark of a perfect homely meal?