The perfectly polished, ultra-clean nail has become a beauty statement of its own. Enter the Russian manicure, a technique that uses an electric file to meticulously clean the nail plate and remove the cuticle, allowing polish to be applied almost right up to the nail fold. While the result is undeniably precise and long-lasting, dermatologists caution that the pursuit of a flawless finish could come at the cost of nail and skin health.
Unlike a conventional manicure, which generally involves gently pushing back the cuticle and trimming only excess skin, a Russian manicure involves much more extensive cuticle removal. “A Russian manicure is essentially a dry manicure in which an electric file, or e-file, is used to very precisely clean around the nail and remove the cuticle,” explains Dr Sunitha Pendyal, senior consultant – clinical and aesthetic dermatologist, Arete Hospital adding, “The concern from a dermatology perspective is not the neat finish itself, but how aggressively the skin barrier is being altered in the process.”
The appeal is easy to understand: thorough cuticle removal gives an elongated, exceptionally clean look, and social media has fuelled the trend. But the cuticle isn’t just excess skin — it’s part of the nail’s natural defence system.“Repeated cutting or aggressive removal of the cuticle can damage the protective barrier around the nail. This may lead to dryness, inflammation, redness and tiny breaks in the skin,” says Dr Swapna Kunduru, consultant dermatologist at Apollo Hospitals, Financial District.
Repeated trauma can increase susceptibility to bacterial or fungal infections, which is why the cuticle is best trimmed minimally rather than removed completely.
Damage from aggressive e-filing isn’t always visible. Even without an obvious cut, microscopic breaks can occur around the nail. “The problem with very aggressive filing is that the skin around the nail can get traumatised. You may not see an obvious cut, but there can be small breaks in the skin,” says Dr Sunitha.
Repeated trauma can leave the area irritated, creating an easier route for bacteria or fungi.
This can result in paronychia — an infection presenting with redness, swelling, tenderness and sometimes pus — as well as nail fungal infections (onychomycosis). Dr Swapna stresses, “Even a seemingly insignificant injury shouldn’t be dismissed, since any tiny cut or abrasion can provide an entry point for microorganisms.”
While many minor injuries heal fine, bacteria can cause painful inflammation or pus-filled infections, and fungi can affect the nail itself.
Salon hygiene remains crucial but cannot eliminate the risk entirely. “Good salon hygiene is important, but even perfectly sterilised instruments cannot completely remove the risk created by repeatedly damaging the body’s own protective barrier,” Dr Sunitha notes.
Damage may extend beyond the skin around the nail. Repeated filing and manipulation can interfere with normal nail growth, potentially causing tenderness, ridging and surface changes. More significant trauma can temporarily disrupt growth and, in some cases, cause the nail to lift or shed.
This is where the technique and tools used during a manicure become important. The electric file itself isn’t necessarily the problem — how it’s used matters. “Electric files can help achieve a neat finish, but aggressive use around the nail fold can cause microscopic injuries, thinning of the skin and inflammation,” explains Dr Swapna.
Excessive pressure or filing too deeply may also damage the nail plate, making gentle technique and a properly trained professional important.
What’s applied afterward matters too. Gel polish and other products can contain chemicals capable of irritating already sensitive skin, so allowing traumatised skin to settle before applying products is the safer approach.
For those who regularly opt for intensive cuticle work, recovery matters. “There is no fixed recovery period suitable for everyone, but frequent intensive cuticle work should be avoided,” notes Dr Swapna.
Skin should be fully free of redness, tenderness or irritation before another procedure, with several weeks between aggressive treatments allowing the barrier to recover. People with diabetes, reduced blood flow, fungal infections, eczema or psoriasis affecting the nails should be particularly cautious.
The clean look doesn’t require removing the entire cuticle. “Gently pushing the cuticle back, trimming only loose dead skin, shaping nails and keeping skin moisturised can offer a similar polish with less trauma. Applying cuticle oil daily keeps the area neat and healthy,” says Dr Swapna.