Continuing the legacy of Satya Paul while preserving its essence of print, drape, and artistic storytelling, creative director Aseem Kapoor unveiled Untamed, a striking new collection showcased at the historic Lancaster House during SXSW London. The presentation captivated audiences with its bold visual language, fluid silhouettes, and fresh interpretation of the brand’s heritage. CE spoke with Aseem Kapoor about the inspiration behind the collection, the creative process, and what lies ahead for Satya Paul.
Excerpts
Tell us about the designs you worked on for the collection.
For the London showcase, I wanted to celebrate what has made Satya Paul distinctive for decades — its mastery of print, colour, fabric, and drape — while presenting that language in a way that feels contemporary and relevant today. Printmaking sits at the heart of the collection. Each print begins digitally before being translated into hand-painted artworks, giving it a more tactile and expressive quality. We revisited a black-and-white zebra print from the archives, reinterpreted an oriental bird motif that appears across multiple looks, and developed a bold dot-and-stripe graphic that recurs throughout the collection. The womenswear continues Satya Paul’s long-standing relationship with fluid drapes, movement, and artistic expression, reimagining some of the brand’s most iconic signatures through a contemporary lens. Alongside this, the showcase marks the introduction of Satya Paul Menswear, a natural evolution for the house.
Tell us what went into designing the collection.
The process really began with understanding the world of Satya Paul. I spent a great deal of time immersing myself in the brand’s archives, its relationship with print, and the visual language that has made it so distinctive over the years. Once I understood those foundations, the collection evolved quite naturally. Lancaster House has historically been a place where different cultures have met, exchanged ideas, and formed connections, and that felt very relevant to what we wanted to communicate through this showcase. The idea wasn’t simply to present a collection but to create a cultural moment that reflected both Satya Paul’s heritage and its future direction.
Was there a particular inspiration behind the collection?
Untamed is really about instinct, individuality, and self-expression. Throughout the collection, there are recurring references to the natural world, which has been a source of inspiration for Satya Paul for decades. Many of the prints draw from flora and fauna, while the drapes and forms explore movement, freedom, and expression. At the same time, the showcase reflects the idea that contemporary Indian design can be both deeply rooted and globally relevant. Whether through the archival pieces or the menswear collection, the inspiration was to create something expressive, personal, and unrestricted.
Tell us about the fabrics and materials used in this collection.
Satya Paul has always had a strong relationship with fluid fabrics, so naturally satins, georgettes, and chiffons play an important role throughout the collection. These materials allow the prints and drapes to move beautifully and become part of the storytelling. We also introduced more structured elements in certain looks to create contrast. For me, the most interesting aspect is how fabric and print interact with one another. At Satya Paul, print is never simply decorative; it shapes the identity, movement, and emotion of a garment.
What will you be working on next?
This showcase marks the beginning of a new chapter, and there is enormous potential across ready-to-wear, menswear, collaborations, and more immersive creative projects. The focus is on building a stronger global conversation around the brand while continuing to evolve its print-led visual language in an authentic way. Menswear is just the beginning, and I’m excited to explore how Satya Paul’s distinctive perspective can continue to grow across categories and new forms of creative expression.
How would you define design in your own words?
Design is everything to me. It’s the art of turning ideas, emotions, and culture into meaningful forms that serve a practical purpose. The best design isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about creating something that resonates with people and leaves a lasting impression.
What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion, to me, is one of the most immediate forms of self-expression. It allows people to communicate who they are without saying a word.
The most interesting fashion isn’t about following trends; it’s about expressing individuality and creating a genuine connection between the person and what they’re wearing. I’ve always been drawn to fashion that feels authentic and emotionally driven. When clothing reflects personality, instinct, and confidence, it becomes much more than something we wear, it becomes a way of telling our story.