For those who believe Hyderabad’s culinary landscape has already revealed all its royal secrets, Riwayat at Dum Pukht Begum’s, ITC Kohenur offers a compelling reason to think again. Running as a special dinner showcase till June 28, this thoughtfully curated menu revisits a lesser-explored aspect of India’s gastronomic history, the food that travelled with emperors, nawabs and noble households. At its heart are kebabs and breads, staples that once sustained royal journeys while preserving the refinement of courtly dining.
The experience begins with a selection of kebabs. Among the standouts is the Jhinga Hussaini, where succulent prawns are delicately spiced, allowing the natural sweetness of the seafood to shine through. Equally impressive is the Mahi Zaituni Kebab, a beautifully balanced preparation in which the richness of fish is complemented by subtle olive notes, resulting in a kebab that is both elegant and memorable.
The Murgh Asifiya Kebab brings familiar comfort, with tender chicken infused with aromatic spices that linger pleasantly on the palate. However, it is the Zareen Du Kebab, a regal rendition of prime cuts of lamb that truly captures the spirit of the festival. Slow-cooked and richly flavoured, it reflects the patience and craftsmanship that define royal cuisine.
Vegetarians are far from an afterthought here. The Nadru Shikampur, crafted with lotus stem, offers a delightful contrast of textures, while the Kathal Ghilafi Seekh transforms humble jackfruit into a sophisticated kebab worthy of royal tables. The Khumb Gilawat is exceptionally soft and flavourful, almost melting in the mouth, and the Kebab Magziyadi rounds off the selection with its nuanced spice profile and rich texture made with cottage cheeses and khoya.
No royal feast is complete without bread, and Riwayat pays equal attention to this often-overlooked accompaniment. The Roghani Sheermal arrives lightly sweet and Naan Gil-e-Firdaus was soft, flavourful and substantial enough to stand on its own while still complementing the dishes it accompanies.
Rather than relying on extravagance, the menu celebrates craftsmanship, heritage ingredients and recipes that have endured through generations.