KOCHI: Chef Thomas Zacharias’s culinary journey is a captivating adventure that began in Kochi, deeply influenced by his grandmother’s kitchen. He then embarked on an extensive exploration of Indian cuisine through his ‘Chef on the Road’ expedition, traversing 25 states and immersing himself in diverse culinary traditions and ingredients.
Along this journey, he gained a profound understanding of India’s rich culinary heritage and the critical role of millets, once a dominant grain but now overshadowed.
Recognising the need to revive millets and promote their nutritional benefits, Chef Thomas launched the Millet Revival Project under the
Locavore platform. As part of this initiative, he is organising a millet event in Kochi on July 20-21, offering participants a hands-on experience with these versatile grains. Chef Thomas speaks to TNIE about his ambitious project and the transformative impact of his culinary odyssey.
Could you please explain your journey as a chef and how it all began?
My journey as a chef began in Kochi, where I spent most of my childhood with my grandmother, Ammini Thomas. She was not only a passionate cook but also kept herself updated through magazines, cooking shows, and local cooking clubs. Her ability to transform ingredients into joyous meals left a lasting impression on me. In her kitchen, I was the happy helper. It was her love, passion, and dedication that shaped my culinary journey, instilling in me a deep appreciation for the effort behind every dish.
You started an expedition in 2014 across India called Chef on the Road. What inspired you to take this step and what was your core mission?
My first food trip started in 2013 through Europe. I realised that I’d been cooking food from countries that I never visited. So, I decided to do just that. For four months, I travelled through France, Italy, and Spain, exploring 36 towns and cities, and using my life savings to learn about Western cuisine.
The trip became a turning point when I met the chef of Osteria Francescana, a restaurant in Italy. When the chef came out to talk to the customers, I expected him to discuss modern cooking techniques. Instead, he shared heartfelt stories about his grandmother and how the restaurant honoured her by showcasing regional cuisine. That made me realise the need to explore the culinary heritage back home.
Six months later, I quit my job and travelled across India. From Tamil Nadu to Himachal Pradesh, Gujarat to Sikkim and Nagaland, I visited 18 different places. This journey transformed my perspective, deepening my appreciation for the traditions, ingredients, and stories behind Indian cuisine. Now, I’ve been to 25 states. My expedition is not just visiting the restaurants of the place, I go to markets, meet farmers, and experience the home-cooked meals of the area, meet and interact with the tribal community. It was an immersive experience.
Did you feel like bringing certain foods to the mainstream?
In my travels, I learned about when to eat, foraging in the forest, using ingredients for different needs, and balanced nutrition, all while living harmoniously with nature. It felt like the modern food habits were flawed — how they conducted their life, the way they ate.
I felt like bringing certain foods to the mainstream, especially, Kashmiri Gustaba, a light and airy meatball crafted by aerating the meat as it’s beaten. In Kerala, I engaged with the Kadar and Malayar tribal communities in villages such as Chimmony and Karikkadav, located in the Chalakudy river basin. Also, the cuisine of Aos, an ethnic group in Nagaland was inspiring. Today’s younger generation seems less interested in absorbing these traditions. Without intervention, many of these culinary and cultural practices may disappear.
Your ambitious Millet Revival project has been spread across several cities. When did the idea crop up?
The project is close to my heart. It is one of the initiatives under the ‘Doing Good with Food’ series by the Locavore team.
The idea was inspired by the UN’s declaration of 2023 as the International Year of Millets, because as an organisation we wanted to use the declaration as the momentum to kickstart a campaign. Since several government initiatives and promotions on millets were already happening on one side, we thought it would be the best time to take up the project.
Personally speaking, my association with millets started long back. During my initial travel across India, I came across several varieties of millets, including bajra roti, ragi roti, ragi mudde, millet salads, and millet khichdi. The project is India-based and we approach the idea of millet revival in different ways. Creating a space where people can learn about millets, understand and discover the nuanced stories and
history of the grain, introduce recipes, give them tips, setting up a resource bank where we list down food experts, farmer collectives and brands across the country that work with millets. Also, there’s a dedicated cooking lab where millet-based recipes are introduced. Our big part of engaging people with the idea of grain is by setting up events.
Where does Kerala stand when it comes to millets?
In Kerala, the production and consumption of millets is very limited. States like Odisha and Karnataka have larger access. In Kerala, however, it is in the nascent stage. I believe millet was consumed in the state several decades ago. But even in tribal communities in Kerala, millet consumption has dropped considerably. Also, in the upcoming event we are organising in the state, women from the Attappady Livelihood Mission will discuss this aspect. It will be challenging to convert Keralites to millet consumers. The good thing though is that people here pick up food trends quite fast and are experimental, so there is a possibility of reintroducing millets to diets.
How did millets vanish from the mainstream consumption?
Many studies point towards the Green Revolution as a reason for millet to disappear from our daily diet. In the 1960s and ’70s, farmers were drawn to hybrid paddy and wheat due to their promise of high yields and incomes. This shift, however, unintentionally sidelined numerous traditional crops. Moreover, millet remained outside the purview of the country’s public distribution system, which historically provided free or subsidised grains to impoverished households. The MS Swaminathan Research Foundation is now focusing on millet too and has accepted that the Green Revolution has taken away indigenous species like millets.
Millets are always seen as a healthier alternative, do you think this perception has made it difficult to get millets to the tables?
Of course, the perception is challenging. Though there have been talks about millet being versatile and nutritious, there have been certain barriers too. People struggle with it, especially longer soaking hours, identifying different types of millet and how to use them effectively. But understanding the versatility is key — whether in millet momos, Kodo millet appams, millet dhoklas, pancakes, beverages, or even millet-based chicken biryani, the possibilities are vast.
Why do you think it is crucial to include millets in the current landscape?
Millets require significantly less water — an important consideration in water-scarce regions like India. There is wide varieties suitable for various agro ecological settings worldwide, making them a resilient choice amid climate change. Also, millets hold cultural significance, especially within tribal communities. Festivals, once vibrant with songs and dances celebrating these grains, such as the long-lost traditional weeding song “Long Hai” in Meghalaya, reflect the cultural loss associated with the decline of millet cultivation.