KOCHI : While exploring Thiruvananthapuram’s diverse food tastes, I met Anjana Gopakumar, a passionate food critic and co-founder of the Instagram page ‘Eat at Trivandrum’. Talking to her, I found that people in the capital have a special corner for traditional cuisine.
Unlike in Kochi where an upscale café culture is prominent, Thiruvananthapuram’s taste buds seem more tuned towards local flavours. There is a huge demand here for authentic Kerala food as compared to any other type of cuisine.
The reason for this could be in the demography. While Kochi has a blend of people from various backgrounds who often seek out diverse tastes and dining-out settings, the scene in the capital city is different. The crowd here values nostalgia, and sports a ‘return-to-the-roots’ syndrome.
Sensing the yearning for flavours of the past, eateries, old and new, upmarket and budget, include authentic traditional fare in their menu to meet the demands.
When it comes to nostalgia and past flavours, there is nothing that matches the ‘Pothichor’, the plantain-leaf wrap of rice and dishes that Malayali matriarchs used to put together for their kin who are on travel or even as a lunch pack for those out at work, school or college.
The pack would have a wholesome meal of rice (the brown, par-boiled variety that is the staple of every Keralite meal), curries or side dishes made of vegetables and garnished well with coconut, traditional dips made out of coconut paste and spices (chammanthi), and mango or lime pickle.
For the non-vegetarians, the menu would have a succulent omelette or a generous piece of fried fish. The entire spread would be packed in plantain leaves that could be disposed of after consumption in a manner that does not harm the environment.
The packing of the pothichor is what gives the menu its homely aura and aroma, says Anjana. Each of the side dishes is neatly arranged around the rice to make the spread appear as a single unit. It is so well laid out that while consuming, one needs to just mix the dishes into the rice with fingers.
The need to garnish rice with sauces such as rasam or sambar or even ‘morucurry’ (sauteed buttermilk or curd), which otherwise is insisted upon during lunchtime in most homes, seems redundant while treating one to pothichor. The whole bunch, even otherwise, gives the ultimate feel and heartiness of a comfort food.
Yet for those who still need something to wet their rice pack, a separate container is provided that would have well-garnished ‘morucurry’, which would leave a lingering buttery taste even after the lunch is done.
Some say the magic of pothichor is all in the toasted plantain wrap. Keralites always relied on plantain leaves for carrying food and looked for the slightest chance to dine on them. Even for festivals like Onam or on birthdays, and for steaming snacks such as Ada, these leaves played their part as a taste enhancer.
What makes pothichor such a power-packed lunch is its ability to take one back to one’s childhood days, says Anjana. This especially becomes evident during long-distance train travel. The grief of having to go away from home is lessened a bit by the comfort of the pothichor.
Recognising all these sentiments, many restaurants in the capital have included pothichor in their menus. While this trend is not new to local eateries, it is noteworthy that a five-star hotel in the city has also introduced the dish on their specially curated menu, a first for business-class establishments.
Executive chef Suresh Kumar from O by Tamara says the motive behind this concept is to include all the traditional flavours in one meal.
“Pothichor is not merely a meal; it’s an emotion, a journey back to authentic flavours, wholesome goodness, and cherished memories. This curated menu has attracted NRIs seeking a taste of home and foreigners eager to experience authentic Kerala cuisine for the first time.”
Sukhil Ram, founder of Poomaram Restaurant which is said to serve good pothichor in the city, agrees. While starting the restaurant, his focus was solely on Kerala’s authentic cuisine. “And when it comes to Kerala food, pothichor leads. Introducing it was a natural choice, and the demand has never waned since. It’s our bestseller on Swiggy and Zomato as well,” he says.
Now, his restaurant offers four to five varieties of pothichor, including options for vegetarians, non-vegetarians, fish lovers, chicken fans, and beef aficionados.
“What sets us apart is that all our chefs are homemakers-turned-professionals. They understand the essence of home-cooked meals. We also incorporate ingredients not commonly found in pothichor but are basic items from our home gardens like plantain stem dishes. That homely touch is what keeps our customers coming back.”
Recently, on a trip to Ernakulam, he found that authentic Kerala cuisine isn’t very prevalent there. “But in the capital, though people are drawn to Arabic and Chinese cuisines temporarily, at the end of the day, they crave a satisfying Kerala meal to fill their stomachs. It is our happiness and weakness.”
Rahul N, the manager at Anandam Payasakada & Takeaway in Nanthancode, says in Thiruvananthapuram, people have always been crazy about food. “And pothichor is always their first choice when it comes to takeout, so it consistently has a high demand in the market.”
For Karthik S R, the marketing manager at Pangayam Restaurant, pothichor is a packet of love and care.
“It has always been a favourite among us, and that’s the main reason for including it on our menu. Working bachelors, especially those away from home, are the primary consumers of pothichor. Our pothichor does not have any extra special dishes; it simply consists of rice with common dishes that everyone is familiar with from home. Additionally, it is easily portable to offices, and the portion size is larger compared to other items.”
Gireesh Kumar, the food and safety manager at Hotel Pallava Rajadhani, feels the significant factor why pothichor is chosen is its manageability.
“Ordering multiple dishes can sometimes be messy. When customers order a vegetarian meal, it often includes numerous dishes, resulting in longer packing times and waiting periods. Moreover, carrying multiple dishes can be cumbersome, especially for individuals with busy schedules. But pothichor is convenient. In today’s fast-paced world, this traditional meal package holds its significance,” he says.
Pothichor thus carries the heart and soul of Kerala’s culinary heritage. It’s not just about the flavours or the convenience, but also a symbol of tradition, nostalgia, and comfort. But beyond all these, it is a package that speaks of love and care of home.
The city’s food scene may evolve or not, but the capital’s love for pothichor will remain as firm as its heritage.