For former Indian diplomat Lakshmi Murdeshwar Puri, the sari is far more than six yards of fabric —it is, as she puts it, a second skin.
Her recently released book The Sari Eternal (Aleph) is part personal memoir, part cultural exploration, tracing the sari's journey from ancient civilisations to the modern day.
Puri says The Sari Eternal is “a capsule on everything you need to know,” but also “a love letter… a tribute… a conversation with the sari.” ““It combines imagination with reality and something very personal.”
A timeless drape
In the book, Puri recalls that her first-ever sari was gifted to her at the age of three by an aunt, who brought Maharashtrian mini saris from Pune along with a set of toys. Having spent most of her life in Delhi and later in Kathmandu, Puri was surrounded by women who wore the sari. Especially, her mother, Malati, was “a proud and loyal wearer” of the garment. She writes of her fascination with her mother’s saris — of playing hide-and-seek with the loose end, using it to dry her face, or watching it double up as a handkerchief for tears and even a runny nose.
Over time, these personal associations developed into a broader comprehension of the cultural and symbolic significance of the sari for Puri. She writes that the garment's history dates back about 5,000 years to the Indus Valley civilisation, where artefacts from locations like Mohenjo-Daro show draped clothing that resembles the sari. In the Vedic period, she notes references in the Rig Veda to garments like the antariya (lower cloth), uttariya (upper drape), and stanapatta (chest band), which gradually evolved into the modern sari ensemble.
From the flowing drapes found at ancient sites like Sanchi and Ajanta to subsequent interpretations in miniature art and the works of Raja Ravi Varma, who popularised the modern style of draping, the garment has appeared throughout classical literature, temple sculptures, and paintings.
“The sari is eternal,” Puri remarks, explaining the title. “Like Indian civilisation itself, it has evolved from thousands of years ago and continues into the future.” Despite changing lifestyles and fashion choices, she notes that a large number of women across India continue to wear it, giving it a sense of permanence.
On global stage
While serving as an Indian Foreign Service (IFS) official and then as the Assistant Secretary-General of the United Nations, Puri has proudly worn saris in a variety of foreign settings, including in boardrooms and international forums. However, she never “felt out of place” in it. “In fact,’ she adds, “I felt empowered… proud to stand out and stand up for my civilisational ground.” She also points out that the sari has often, even become a conversation starter, admired for its elegance and fluidity. “It makes you look different every day,” she notes, pointing to its adaptability across fabrics, drapes, and styles.
Choice, not conformity
Puri also addresses the perception of the sari as a symbol of modesty or even patriarchy, particularly when associated with practices like veiling. She acknowledges that some in the younger generation view the garment through this respect, but strongly opposes the idea that it represents submission. In the book, she recalls how her mother chose not to cover her head with the pallu, influencing her own approach to wearing the sari. She argues that the sari’s simplicity, and it being an unstitched piece of fabric, actually offers immense freedom, allowing the wearer to adapt, style, and define it on her own terms.
Not knowing how to drape a sari or perceiving it as uncomfortable are also some of the practical barriers. “Once you learn the technique, it takes less time than wearing jeans,” she sats. Pre-stitched versions and thoughtful styling can also be ways to create a distinct difference.
Importantly, Puri also situates the garment within a broader socio-economic ecosystem.The sari sustains millions of artisans, weavers, and craftspeople across India. “If you stop wearing saris, you risk the death of many of these traditions,” she adds.
The book also notes signs of revival. Social media, designers, and influencers are giving the sari a fresh spin for a new generation, making it “a statement dress—bold, eye-catching, and expressive; that expresses the wearer’s unique style and personality, exudes self-belief, and is regarded as precious and enduring.”