A food review is more useful when it advises one to steer clear, because it saves a would-be consumer time, money and probably a pungent belch. But when a celebrated British baker who has opened shop in Mexico City pooh-poohs the proud wheat tradition of the hosts, it’s a culture war.
After Richard Hart slighted the tortas of Mexico, chef Tania Medina retorted, “He wants to be the Christopher Columbus of bread.” Maybe Hart didn’t stomach the difference between low-starch maize, which has a rich history in the region, and high-fibre wheat.
It sounds like a half-baked attempt at attracting heat to make daily bread. Not all that leavens brings in dough.