Barely a kilometre from the newly operational Vizhinjam International Seaport stands a 7th-century stone temple that stands as a ‘monument’ of neglect.
Believed to be constructed by the Aye-Vel rulers, the Vizhinjam Stone Temple is an important reminder of the region’s ancient past, but remains largely overlooked even as the region is set to transform into a maritime and tourism hub.
Built out of granite blocks, the temple complex once had two beautifully carved shrines. One has since collapsed. The fallen shrine is said to have housed a Sivalinga, reflecting the influence of the Shaivite tradition.
A small sculpture of the Aye king Vikramaditya Varaguna, under whose reign the kingdom reached its zenith, can also be seen on the wall of the ruined shrine.
The complex acquired further historical significance after Cyclone Ockhi. Among the remnants of the temple, an idol of Karunandadakkan, an Aye ruler, was discovered. The buried idol was found by historian M G Sasibhooshan.
Karunandadakkan is regarded as the founder of Parthivapuram Shala, an important centre of learning modelled on the celebrated Kanthalloor Shala of the Aye dynasty. Ancient records place the institution at Moonchira in southern Keralam.
“The abandoned temple carries the great memories of the King Karunandadakkan, who built the Pardhivapuram Temple and the aforesaid forgotten university,” says Sasibhooshan, pointing to the existence of an important educational centre in the region.
The temple’s connection with the Aye-Vel dynasty runs deeper. Vizhinjam was once one of the political centres of the dynasty, which ruled the southern parts of present-day Keralam.
“Its natural, semi-circular harbour made it an important strategic and trading location. The name Vizhinjam itself is believed to refer to the distinctive shape of the harbour. The Portuguese later referred to it as ‘Vrinjal’,” says Sasibhooshan.
“The Arabs, Dutch and English also recognised Vizhinjam’s maritime importance and used the harbour for trade.”
The Aye-Vels were not only concerned with political power. According to research by the late S P Thampi, who was director of Kerala Marine Archaeology, the dynasty established three educational centres known as Kanthalloor Shalakal in and around Vizhinjam. The Kanthalloor Shala near the stone temple was considered the most important.
The centres were eventually destroyed during battles. One was demolished by a ruler of the same dynasty and another was destroyed by a Pandya king. What survives today, according to Thampi’s account, is only a part of the old Kanthalloor Shala.
The temple itself represents a blend of Pandya and indigenous architectural traditions. Similar examples of the early Aye-Vel school of art can be found in the region, including the rock-cut sculptures at Perunkadavila in Thiruvananthapuram district.
Nature, meanwhile, has left its own mark on the monument. Over the years, huge fig trees grew around the shrines, their roots spreading across the granite structures.
Once considered a threat, the trees had also given the ruins an unusual beauty, forming what can appear like naturally sculpted wooden structures around the stonework.
The condition of the premises, however, was once far from picturesque.
“Until recently the temple premises that once symbolised the pride, glory and prosperity of the kingdom were dirty,” notes Suresh Moni, a professional tour guide associated with India Tourism.
“The stone-paved floor of the temple where the devotees reverently put their bare foot was totally disappeared under a heap of waste.”
With no proper waste-disposal system, local fisherfolk had been using the compound as a dumping ground. Thankfully, the situation has since improved.
Following interventions by local residents and the Travancore Devaswom Board, the premises were cleaned, the trees were trimmed and a compound wall with locked gates was constructed.
Old photographs taken about 25 years ago and recent images show the difference. Yet the monument remains largely inaccessible as a place of worship or as a properly maintained historical site for visitors.
According to local residents, particularly those over 75, the temple has not been visited by devotees or priests for more than 70 years. Its neglect over the decades has contributed to its present condition.
The temple’s proximity to the seaport gives the issue renewed urgency. The port can be seen from the temple premises. Notably, a cruise ship terminal has also been proposed in the area.
“Considering the historical significance the authorities could retain the Vizhinjam Stone Temple as an enclave, even if the later stages of harbour constructions are completed or at least transplant it into another convenient spot,” says Vinesh Vidya, director of UK-headquartered Globe Travel Centre.
“The monument has the potential to attract a lot of international travellers, especially history buffs. This is a growing tribe. Preserving such cultural remnants can do good for the region.”
It is interesting to note that just a few yards away stands another reminder of Vizhinjam’s ancient architectural legacy — a monolithic rock-cut temple dating to the Chera period.
Believed to have survived from the Sangam period, it is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. Believers head here for worship as well. It houses Pasupathananthamurti, a form of Lord Siva, with figures of Parvati and Kirathamurti at the entrance.
The contrast is striking. One ancient shrine remains protected and continues to radiate positivity, while the other remains in shambles, largely ignored.
Ajai is a travel writer associated with the Union ministry of tourism. Views are personal.