One can choose to dwell in the bliss of ignorance or face the unfiltered truth. Forty one-year-old Amar Nagaram, the co-founder of Virgio, a Bengaluru-based brand pioneering circular fashion, chose the latter. Every time it unveils a new collection—as it did recently with ‘Born to Shine’, ‘Wild Romance’, and ‘The Safari Edit’—adopting a pro-planet approach is a given.
It starts with the basic: building trust. “We aim to transparently communicate the environmental footprint of each garment by showcasing the carbon emission, water and energy consumption. This has been assessed by a third party to keep it unbiased. Our aim is for consumers to be aware of the impact of wastage and to start questioning their choices,” says Nagaram.
In the initial days, he found it difficult to strike a balance between staying on top of trends and prioritising sustainability; something he has managed to now achieve by nurturing a team of design-cum-environment enthusiasts.
The proof is in the pudding. ‘Born to Shine’ is a collection of high-quality, durable garments, which are both fun and sophisticated. There are bright pops of colour in styles such as V-neck and high-neck midi dresses, wrap dresses, sporty silhouettes, button-down shirt dresses as well as halter, flared and mini dresses. The cotton rosette appliqué work rendered on some of them, adds a stylish accent to a simple outfit, while smocked details lend texture to an otherwise stoic garment. To amp the styles for formal occasions, they have been embellished with metallic details.
The ‘Wild Romance’ line, on the other hand, comes with a multiplicity of botanical and tropical prints in earthy tones. Rich browns, soft beiges, luxe taupe and a selection of nudes are the fulcrum of the range, which also boasts some classic blues and blacks, all inspired by pigments found in nature. The ‘Safari Edit’ goes deeper into the wilderness to feature animal prints. “All garments are made with natural fabrics such as cotton, modal, lyocell, viscose and linen. These are all derived from trees or plants, making them gentler on the skin, besides being renewable, biodegradable and requiring fewer resources to produce,” says the founder.
The dyes too are azo-free and therefore, non-toxic. All garments are made with partners who are certified for their ethical practices. “Each one of them is working on water conservation, promoting women's workforces and fair wages. Other smaller details that go unnoticed, but have a significant impact include replacing the four polyester labels, which go on garments, with a QR code one. It educates the users on the product, its footprint, and even how to style it. Our packaging is convertible into a handbag, so even that can be reused,” says the entrepreneur, who is working on adding other pillars of circularity like recycling of garments and resale into the working of the brand.
Nagaram’s journey, thus far, has been gratifying. From a lack of awareness among consumers, manufacturers, and retailers to the speed of fast fashion drawing everyone, the entrepreneur feels a bit bogged down at times. “Big manufacturers are taking some sustainable steps, but the smaller players are struggling. Implementation costs, compliance, and certifications add up, and sustainable materials are pricey and hard to come by. Working with limited partners at this stage means either facing challenges with expensive, small batches or promoting overproduction with large ones, making the whole cycle difficult to manage. Brands, even some riding the fast fashion wave, are hesitant to change due to profit concerns and the need for big infrastructure shifts.
Limited regulations and incentives make circular practices less attractive for businesses. Even on the demand side, consumers are all about new trends, not fully aware of the environmental impact. The greenwashing by fast fashion brands is muddying the waters,” he says. None of this, however, dampens his spirits. If anything, it makes his resolve to break the cycle of fashion excesses stronger.