Food

Between Day and Night

A cafe in the clear light of day, this new Mumbai space acquires the mood of a neighbourhood bar by night

Sana Krishna

Fourteen years after beginning life as a boutique cake studio in Hyderabad, Conçu has opened its first outpost beyond its home city, choosing a tucked-away street in Colaba for its Mumbai debut.

Food: Conçu’s strongest association remains with pastry, and the dessert counter is still the focal pointof the experience. The food, however, extends well beyond the patisserie. Breakfast leans towards familiar cafe staples, with eggs prepared to order, pancakes, smoothie bowls and avocado-centric dishes catering to Mumbai’s enduring appetite for leisurely brunches. Through the day, the menu broadens to encompass salads, sandwiches, pastas, pizzas and small plates intended for sharing, moving fluidly across culinary references. There are occasional reminders of of the eatery’s Hyderabad roots. Dishes such as Jackfruit Haleem, Sando No. 65 and an Apricot Tres Leches reference the city where the brand first established itself, while sitting comfortably alongside more international cafe fare. The beverage programme follows a similarly expansive approach. Espresso-based coffees and cold brews are joined by matcha, teas, ube lattes and seasonal concoctions.

Decor: The address benefits greatly from its setting. A soaring 40-ft ceiling creates an immediate sense of volume, while exposed brick walls uncovered during the restoration process, preserve traces of the building’s past.

Service: Service here is unobtrusive, in keeping with the atmosphere the cafe seeks to cultivate.

Price: At `2,000 for a meal for two (without alcohol), its easy on the pocket.

Address: 2nd Pasta Ln, Railway Colony, Colaba, Mumbai

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