On arriving at Budapest, I am amazed at its potential comprising as it does the romantic Buda hills, the plains of Pest and the river Danube, which divides the twin cities.
According to legend, the town was named after Attila’s brother Buda, while Pest in Slavic means furnace or oven. After the Roman conquest, the Huns followed, and the invasion sent the Goths, Longobards and Avars here, and they settled down till the city was destroyed by Charlemagne. It was after the Mongol invasion in 1241 that King Bela IV had a fortress built in Buda, and the town grew to be strong and became the royal residence. Sigismund of Luxembourg had a beautiful gothic palace built on the castle hill, which was later enhanced in beauty and grandeur by King Mathias. The cities of Buda and Pest developed phenomenally and with the Turkish invasion many baths, houses, and buildings eastern in style appeared besides the gothic and renaissance types. It was during the Hapsburg rule that the towns flourished and became the centres of Hungarian culture.
Our tour began with a visit to the Heroes Square where a pillar supported by two colonnades with statues of kings of Hungary and princes of Transylvania stand beside each column. The statues are bronze and impressive, particularly the one with angel Gabriel on top. At the base is a sculptured group representing the seven chieftains who conquered the Carpathian Basin. The museum of fine arts, and the palace of art stand close by.
Driving along, we see a lot of buildings in the gothic and renaissance style and in some parts in the nouveau art style too.
We arrive at the Royal Palace of Godollo which is on the outskirts of Budapest for a look at one of Hungary’s most beautiful baroque buildings. It’s called Grassalkovich Palace after Antal Grassalkovich who was a close friend of Empress Maria Theresa who commissioned its construction in 1740. We walk along the opulent interiors with its plethora of paintings, gilded furniture upholstered in gorgeous tapestry fabric and intriguing rococo style heater. The palace has a huge pantry and nine kitchens, lavish dinner sets in bone china and in one of Maria Theresa’s private rooms, her coronation dress in gold and silver weighing 20 kg hangs. Many rooms display French-style furniture lavishly upholstered in gold and beige. The bedroom of the royal couple is a masterpiece, a perfect compromise of classic taste and luxury.
An exquisite chapel adjoines the bedroom. Of the paintings, particularly arresting is the one of the empress at the age of 14. The evening sun casts long shadows on the walls and our tour draws to a close. We walk to the palace café where we are treated to coffee and pastries from the palace kitchen.
At seven, we board the van for our first Hungarian evening where wine unlimited is served along with some fine local specialities and get our first taste of the famous goulash. We also get to enjoy the local music.
The following morning, a walk along the chain bridge hanging over the Danube gives us a good view of the parliament. Built in late 19th century and completed in 1904, the building is outstanding for its architectural grandeur, its classic lines giving the impression of fragility.
The Fisherman’s Bastion is one of the most peculiar buildings in Budapest, built in neo-Romanesque style by Frigyes Schulek between 1899-1905 as part of the ancient castle wall behind Matthias Church. It is a “must see” for its unique design and for its pristine appearance owing to the use of white sandstone. A spectacular view of the city of Budapest can be had here.
A cruise down the Danube offers a panoramic view of forts, castles, palaces and orchards. The cool breeze wafting from the river and as we sail along to the accompaniment of Strauss’s Blue Danube, makes the three-hour-long cruise unforgettable.
The Royal Castle on Castle Hill is an experience by itself as you walk along the bridge and as you ascend the slope, the trees with their dense foliage suddenly part and the magnificient castle stuns you with its stupendous beauty. Here we watch the change of guards. The palace is used for administrative affairs of the government. A spectacular view of the capital can be had from here.
The following day a trip to the Skanzen Museum to visit a village that has been preserved as it was 200 years ago provides food for thought. The sight of ripe tomatoes, paprika and young maidens plucking fruit from trees is enough to rejuvenate the spirits and engulf you with gladness.
Apart from its splendid buildings, palaces, spas, Budapest is the prominent cultural centre. Several renowned musicians like Ferenc, Gustav Mahler and Bela Bartok as also some of the masters of fine arts of international fame have enriched the capital with their art. Claimed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it stands prominently in the international field of culture, trade and education. Leaving the city in the early hours on the following morning, I turn back with a mental resolve to return again.