An olfactory revolution has been brewing in India. And Kerala isn’t shying away from it. One can smell this one in the air.
Malayalis have indeed come a long way from the Cuticura era, when one tin of talc doubled up as body fragrance for the whole family. Some would even pack a bit in their handkerchiefs for midday top-ups.
Then a penchant for perfumery blossomed with the Gulf boom. Along with Nivea cream and Axe Oil, bottles of Brut, One Man Show, and Yardley became cherished gifts from NRIs from West Asia. Many still keep those old, empty bottles for nostalgia’s sake.
By the mid-1990s, deodorants entered the market. A can of deo spray or a roll-on was considered a premium possession. College students would discuss new brands and fragrances. The happily uninitiated lot was given sermons on why one should use a deo.
In the new millennium, as exposure and purchasing power rose, so did choices available in the market. Body fragrances became a part of personality development and identity. Now, some may call it aura.
This craze — fuelled by social media, e-com platforms, and EMI options — has resulted in an unprecedented boom in the love for scents. Niche has become mainstream.
According to the India Perfume Market Report by IMARC, the segment was valued at $1.18 billion in 2024 and is projected to grow to nearly $2 billion by 2033.
Another study by Research and Markets predicts faster growth. “The perfume market in India is forecasted to grow by USD 2.18 billion during 2024-2029, accelerating at a CAGR of 17.9 per cent during the forecast period,” it notes.
Forget the number-crunching. One thing is clear, a burgeoning tribe of middle-class buyers, once content with deos, are now turning to premium and luxury fragrances. These are not viewed as reserves of the ultra-rich anymore. This is smellable in Kerala as well.
“People come to the store after doing thorough research. Since information is easily available on Google, we don’t need to educate them on brands, fragrance notes, etc. Our job has become easier,” says Kiran Babu Varghese, Kerala region team leader of SS Beauty (Shoppers Stop).
“Fragrance is becoming part of identity. There are many who use just one particular perfume. That scent becomes connected to their individuality.”
Geevarghese T Simry, director of H&C Books, is one such cologne aficionado. “For over a decade, I have been using Armani’s Aqua Di Gio. It’s a fresh, invigorating fragrance. I cannot imagine using something else now,” he says.
Kiran adds that the fragrance section alone earns more than Rs12 lakh a month from a store at a mall in the city. “Currently, brands like Armani, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss and Carolina Herrera are popular among urban customers. These are no longer viewed as exotic,” he says.
Pizza perfume, anyone?
Marketing professional Angel Zachariah agrees. The 32-year-old’s dream is to buy Jo Malone’s Orange Blossom. “It is very expensive, so I am saving up. It’s fresh, citrus and calming,” she smiles.
Fragrance has become something personal, she adds. “I prefer citrus scents as my body heats quite fast. If I use an intense fragrance, it gives me a headache. Citrus is what I connect more with. It lifts my mood,” she smiles.
Among youngsters, especially teenage girls, vanilla has become a trend, notes Athira Jose, a home baker and dancer. “My children and their friends use body mists from brands such as Victoria’s Secret, Bath and Body Works, and Nykaa,” she says.
Athira herself fell in love with perfumes 15 years ago when her husband gifted her one from Dubai. “It was a mild-scented one. Soon, I figured out I prefer floral notes. Later, when I went on a trip to Singapore, I bought Miss Dior. That was it — there has been no stopping since then,” she grins.
The floral, citrus accords of that perfume connected with her so deeply that, over the past decade, she has used more than 10 bottles of it. “I also use Chanel’s Gabrielle, named after the founder of the brand. It is also a floral perfume. These two are my all-time favourites,” she says.
Her daughters, however, don’t share her taste. “They prefer more intense and newer fragrances, especially sweet and vanilla scents. That shows a generational shift; florals are ‘old’ now,” she laughs.
Moreover, today’s youth are more aware of the science behind fragrances. “They know about base, middle and top notes, and terms like longevity, performance, and projection,” Athira observes.
Many are also opting for what’s called ‘functional fragrances’. These are said to be scientifically engineered ‘neuro’ fragrances that have a positive effect on one’s mind and mood. They can be inspired by anything, from forest bathing to the deep blue oceans.
Well, it is a vast world out there — from eau de parfum to elixirs. “Vanilla made a comeback just a couple of years ago. The effect is visible here, too. Youngsters are noticing, demand is rising, and many homegrown brands are producing their own versions,” says Kiran of SS Beauty.
He adds that gourmand perfumes have emerged as a new rage in some parts of the West, and it’s likely to have a ripple effect down here as well. Gourmand? Yeah, but we are not talking about just chocolate or coffee here. How about a pizza-inspired perfume with notes of oregano?
Petrichor in a bottle, made in Kerala
What about the fresh scent of new rain as a perfume? The concept has been something perfumers have been recreating. Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh has been famous for its Mitti ka Attar, which has a lot of fans.
Now, the Jawaharlal Nehru Tropical Botanic Garden & Research Institute, Palode, has conjured up its own version of ‘mitti attar’. But with a twist. Here, the “unique, earthy aroma” is “captured from plants”.
“The original mitti attar is created through a laborious process, which includes distilling sun-dried hot soil. Hence, it is expensive,” says Prof. K B Ramesh Kumar, head of phytochemistry and phytopharmacology at the institute. “It is a component called geosmin, produced by a streptomyces bacteria, that generates the smell of fresh soil. We have now successfully distilled that scent component from a plant at the institute. This discovery makes the process of bottling petrichor much more economical.”
The institute has named the first batch of the perfume ‘Tropical Soil Scent’. “We are applying for the patent, and after that, we will go commercial,” Ramesh adds. By the way, which is the plant behind the perfume? “For now, let it be a secret,” he smiles. “We will let you know once we receive the patent.”
800 bottles and counting
Now, this is called a real craze. Ajmal Khan, a techie-turned-influencer, has a collection of 800 perfumes. These, together, are worth over Rs 35 lakh, says the 31-year-old.
It all started as gifts from the Gulf during his college days. I fell in love with them. "I used to apply perfume on my wrists in the middle of the night, while studying, and just sniff," he laughs.
When he got a job, he bought his first bottle of premium fragrance — Hugo Boss. "It smelled so fresh, with notes of green apple," he recalls.
Soon, the collection grew. "Once I dropped a Versace bottle. For days, we couldn't sleep in the room. I still have that bottle's cap," he laughs.
As the craze grew, he started a YouTube channel. "It was just before Covid. I just loved talking about perfumes," he says. “During the pandemic, I entered Instagram. Not many influencers dedicate themselves to fragrances. So, I gained followers fast.”
Ajmal says one common suggestion request he gets is for a mild but long-lasting perfume. “In a humid place like Kerala, that is a hard combination," he says.
"You could try strong ones that would gradually mellow through the day. Or reapply the mild one as and when required — without inconveniencing others, of course.”
Another thing he has noticed is the rise of luxury brands. "Many young professionals have now become choosy. They scour through numerous racks and hunt for their preferred scent. High prices do not deter them. Brands like Chanel, Prada, YSL, Versace, Gucci, Dior, Tom Ford... There are buyers for all in our humble little Kerala."
The first advice he gives to beginners in the world of fragrances is simple: "Spray it on for yourself. It is not about impressing others."
Basics of the game
1. Apply the scent on pulse points — wrists, neck, behind earlobes, inner fold of elbows, etc. Avoid rubbing it. Instead, let it dry naturally.
2. Under humid conditions, apply vaseline or moisturiser on pulse points, and then spray the perfume.
3. Many types of fragrances are available
Eau de Cologne: Contains 2-5% of fragrance oil. For a quick outing.
Eau de toilette: 5 to 15% of fragrance oil. Best for office environs.
Eau de parfum: The term means perfume water. It contains over 15 to 20% of essential oils, making it more long-lasting. Ideal for outdoor meetings, events, and parties.
Elixir: Higher concentration — 20 to 40% — of fragrance oil. Intense, heady kind.
4. Using deodorants or mists of the same fragrance will help.
5. If wearing whites or light-shaded clothes, try first on hidden areas to see if the spray leaves a mark on the fabric.
6. Don’t go by gender classification. All that matters is if you like it or not. In the end, it’s all about attitude.