Passing by the urban din and dust of Kochi, it is hard to imagine that the road ahead leads to stillness. As the city recedes, narrow roads wind through dense forests and sprawling rubber, coconut, and pineapple plantations, opening into villages where life moves at a quieter, more contemplative pace. Not without its challenges, though.
Raju Mani and his friends are immersed in conversation under the shade of a tree in Kuttampuzha village. I interrupt them with a comment on how tranquil the place is.
It is clear that what visitors see as natural beauty is, for the local residents, a quiet and enduring struggle. “From a few kilometres from Kuttampuzha town to Pooyamkutty, the road is completely damaged. There aren’t enough bus services,” says Raju, a leader of about 130 tribal families settled in Kuttampuzha.
“The hospitals and schools have been developed by the government. But, how does one reach there? There is an alternative route, but it is longer and takes more time. The people in tribal settlements here have to spend Rs 500 to take a jeep to go to the hospital or the town.”
About 20km away lies Kothamangalam. Braving the blazing sun, people move about their routines. Jagadish Iramallur, a tea stall owner, is busy serving snacks and tea to his regulars. Having run the shop for years, he knows his customers well and maintains chatter even as he tends to the samovar.
Jagadish was once a committed CPM worker, but has since parted ways now. “Current party leaders don’t adhere to ideology or values. Politics has become like a profession for most of them. VS [Achuthanandan] was the last true communist in Kerala,” he says.
“The Pinarayi [Vijayan] government performed well in the first term. However, the second term has left followers like me disillusioned. In the Congress, too, after Oommen Chandy, I haven’t seen a true leader.”
As I continue my journey, the road grows busier in Perumbavoor. Street vendors and migrant workers keep the place buzzing. They, however, pause as loudspeakers blare campaign messages.
Lottery vendor Udayan is engaged in a discussion with his friends Abbas and Raju. Responding to my query on the local political weather, he points to the local government hospital and school as signs of development.
“This is a government that has dealt with Nipah, floods, and Covid. The Left has shown us what a state government can do for the people. Why do we need a change?” he asks.
His remark sparks a heated debate. Raju raises issues related to Sabarimala and economic development.
Abbas gets agitated. “The Sabarimala women’s entry was not an issue the government created. The government was only implementing the court verdict. They were doing their duty,” he says, asserting aloud that he is a “CPM man”.