It was an impromptu adventure, just for thrills. But in hindsight, the trek, though arduous, was a deeply fulfilling one. Scaling Agasthyarkoodam, one of the most difficult mountain treks in south India, proved to be a humbling experience of self-realisation.
Tucked on the outskirts of the state capital, about 50km away in Vithura, Agasthyarkoodam is part of the Agasthyamala Biosphere Reserve — an ecologically significant region spanning Kerala and Tamil Nadu, at the southern tip of the Western Ghats. Standing at a height of 1,868m (6,129ft) above sea level, it is one of the highest peaks in Kerala.
The walk seems endless. One walks, walks and walks… and then walks some more along a path interspersed with steep climbs, both short and long. Occasional stops help calm the lungs and knees.
Stunning scenery unfolds as one stretches the back and continues the trek. Waterfalls gush out of nowhere. Slippery patches and meandering pathways give way to lush meadows. Leeches keep reminding their presence as the scorching sun plays peekaboo with soft drizzle, mellowing mist, and dense fog.
Sudden gusts at vantage points make one wobble, but the unfettered, panoramic wildness anchors the soul.
Organised by the forest department, the three-day Agasthyarkoodam trek begins from Bonacaud. Starting early, one can cover about 14km to the base camp at Athirumala. Travelling light helps.
The first day’s trek largely traverses what can be called ‘the plains’. Well, it’s a description that feels ironic on the return journey. It includes three steep climbs, two cutting across open meadows. The last and most demanding ascent is aptly named Muttidichan Para. It means ‘knee-hitting rock’.
Reaching Athirumala takes five to six hours of steady trekking. Well-marked forest signboards indicate camps at Pandi Motta, Karamanayar, Vazhapindiyar and Attayar, which serves mainly as a transit halt.
Much of the initial stretch follows well-trodden forest paths, punctuated by cold-water brooks that offer timely refreshment. Beyond Attayar, the terrain becomes unpredictable. Soil paths through the meadows may seem deceptively easy, but soon begin to strain the knees. As the meadows fade, Muttidichan Para rises ahead. It’s an unforgiving 1km-long climb through wet rock, slippery pebbles, large boulders and exposed tree roots. Steep shortcuts tempt some, but fatigue pushes most to the longer, safer route. A fallen tree, long established as a resting spot, signals relief. Another kilometre leads to Athirumala.
From there, the six-kilometre stretch to the summit begins under a dense green canopy, strewn with fallen trunks and marked by gentle ascents and descents. At Nadukanipara, named for its sweeping views, the landscape shifts and the trek grows more strenuous. Here, rock inscriptions indicate the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border.
Next halt is Pongalappara, where devotees once offered pongala. Scattered streams reappear, a blessing to tired trekkers. Muddy climbs, dry pebble beds and exposed roots test stamina and resolve. Rope-assisted sections add to the challenge.
The final ascent is the most exhilarating — an almost vertical rock climb over three massive granite mounds. Overhead ropes guide the way. Some climb upright, while the cautious opt for the ‘monkey walk’ on all fours.
Those with acrophobia or asthma better pause here. Adventure does thrill, but may common sense prevail.
From the summit, beside the famed Agasthya shrine, three reservoirs can be seen — Peppara and Neyyar in Kerala and Karayar in Tamil Nadu. Surrounded by drifting clouds and serene stillness, a deep sense of gratitude overwhelms one. For being able to stand amidst such breathtaking grandeur.
Time for the descent, which is more punishing on the legs. Knees, calves and thigh muscles often protest. Step by step, one returns to base camp. Well-deserved rest at night, and back to Bonacaud the next day.
And it’s a wrap to three days of trekking. Three days of adrenalin-laced bliss.