At a time when the ever-vibrant city of joy prepares to transform itself into a dazzling tapestry of lights, with sound checks echoing from every stage as it gears up to welcome Maa Durga, there’s another side of Kolkata that hasn’t slept for the last few months. Deep into the narrow lanes of North Kolkata lies Kumartuli, where a rhythmic, almost meditative hammering sound fills the air under the glow of dim bulbs, where artisans are working tirelessly, battling against time, unpredictable monsoon showers, and anything else that comes between them and their clay-smeared hands.
With Durga Pujo being just two weeks away, the artisans of Kumartuli hardly have time even to blink as they have been working from 5 am to 12 am at night. The traditional potter’s town in North Kolkata is the busiest, especially before the arrival of pujo festivities. TNIE talked to some artisans at work who spared a few minutes from their busy schedule.
With a total of 40 idol orders across Kolkata, Mintu Pal, a third-generation idol maker from his family, is barely able to eat three meals a day. He is making a wide range of Durga idols with their height ranging from 13 to 18 feet. Some of his famous orders include the very old North Kolkata’s Santosh Mitra Square, whose theme for this year’s pujo is ‘Operation Sindoor.’ Apart from this, Pal is also making idols for Vivekananda Sporting Club, Behala Adarshpally Club and Saltlake FD Block, among others.
When asked how the demand for Durga idols has changed over time, Mintu Pal says, “Of course, over time, people are preferring theme pujos over Sabeki Durga (a traditional style of Durga idol), and we have to abide by our customers’ demands.” According to Mintu Pal, an advantage of theme pujas is that people are getting jobs. “With theme pujas happening across West Bengal, artists are getting paid for their work. It's not limited to us but to all those who possess talent, whether it be in the form of paper cuttings or even decorating the pandal according to the theme,” Mintu Pal says while giving a finishing touch to Mahishasura. When asked about how Kolkata’s never-ending monsoon season is affecting their business, Mintu said the clay is taking time to dry, which in turn is delaying the painting of the goddess.
While each pandal in Kolkata will showcase its own unique theme for Durga Pujo, idol makers are exploring creative directions in shaping the idols. Indrajit Paul, a third-generation artisan, is crafting a Durga idol with 3D eyes, which will be sent to New Town, Kolkata. “This year, I thought, why not give Maa Durga’s eyes an illuminating effect? To achieve this, I’ve used an American diamond,” said Indrajit, who had begun working on the idol in February.
While most artists in Kumartuli are swamped with work, some heaved a sigh of relief this month after completing their orders destined for overseas. Koushik Ghosh, an artist, sends Durga idols every year to the USA, France, Germany, Italy and UAE, among other countries. When asked about how the Pratima (idol) is different from India, he said, “The idols which we send to foreign countries are considerably small in size, varying within 5 to 8 feet in range. Instead of mud, these idols are made of fiberglass to make it convenient to ship them to other places.” Ghosh said his father received his very first order from Germany, which was made by the daughter of one of the most famous sweet shops in Kolkata -- Bhim Nag in Bowbazar where every Bengali’s heart lies.
While idol-making is often male-dominated, women are equally passionate about the craft. China Pal, daughter of renowned artist Hemanta Kumar Pal, has been in the business since 1994. “As a child, I would sit beside my father, watching him sculpt Maa Durga with such detail. When his health declined, I took over,” she said. Today, China receives orders not only from Kolkata but also from cities like Bhopal and pilgrimage sites like Tarapith. On facing challenges as a woman, she recalls, “My father once feared society wouldn’t accept me as an idol maker. But when he fell ill, he held my hands and taught me to mould clay. The journey from moulding clay for the first time to serving some of the big orders of Kolkata was not easy. Did I make it? The smile on my customers’ faces says it all.”
As Kumartuli races against time, each idol stands as a testament to devotion and craftsmanship. From seasoned artisans to trailblazing women, the soul of Durga is etched into each intricate creation.